- Exploring Ireland: Counties Cork, Kerry, and Limerick
- Exploring Ireland: Counties Clare and Galway
- Exploring Ireland: Counties Connemara and Mayo
- Love, Marriage, & Hiking in Vail, Colorado
- Hidden NYC: Delectable Discoveries
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Coming Very Soon ...
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Exploring: Counties Kildare, Kilkenny, and Waterford, Ireland
Ahh, back to roaming around Ireland.
Don't make the mistake of thinking you can explore even half of Ireland in 10 days. There is so much to experience that if you drive even 15 miles without stopping, you've definitely missed something spectacular!
My Recommendations:
Must Do's ...
I smile on the memories ...
How to maneuver driving roundabouts ...
Mark, the extremely handsome cab driver who took me to pick up my rental car, taught me the most important lesson of my trip ... how to drive roundabouts! I was nervous about driving on the left side of the road, which turned out to be a piece of cake, but he cautioned me about roundabouts. I shared my strategy: stay in the outside left lane and if I miss my 'exit', then I'll simply keep driving around until I can make it.
"And that," said Mark, "is why you Americans cause so many accidents!"
As he explained the proper way to drive them, I didn't get it. So he kindly said we'd drive through a few together. Ahhh, I got it! I was viewing roundabouts as roads with exits, when in fact they're simply intersections without corners. So you maneuver them as you would an intersection:
So learning to drive roundabouts was easy.
Collaborating with Emily was not.
Emily is the lovely woman on my GPS system. It took that first day for us to get our groove on. And as such, needless to say, I ended up driving in circles and far off the path of where I was heading ...
County Kildare, Ireland ...
I had originally wanted to visit County Kildare and the town of Kildare. Something was calling me there and telling me I needed to go. But I left Dublin later than planned that day, as I simply had to tour Trinity College, and I really wanted to get through Waterford so I could have an early start west the next morning. So, mistakenly, I decided to skip Kildare and go straight to Kilkenny then on to Waterford.
Because I wasn't understanding Emily very well, I ended up missing exits or exiting too soon. Given my adventurous nature, instead of back-tracking I allowed Emily to simply calculate a new route. After making several blunders ...
... the road turned and I found myself in awe of the glorious rolling fields in front of me. The grass looked manicured but was long enough for me to see it blowing in the breeze. The fields were wide open and the grass was the greenest I'd ever seen (until I saw Kerry the next day, that is). There was a large sign, Punchestown Racecourse, and in the distance behind it I could see the lovely racecourse. I was in horse country!! I was reminded of Lexington, Kentucky, horse capital of the United States and near my hometown of Cincinnati (and Keeneland Racecourse). While Lexington has an elegant, prestigious, white-fenced charm, Punchestown was more classic elegance with country charm.
I was in the heart of Ireland's thoroughbred country. Every April, the Punchestown Racecourse hosts the big race of Naas, the county seat of County Kildare. Ireland is known for being where the world's best thoroughbreds are reared and trained.
There are meets throughout the year across the countryside. The Curragh, is the famous Irish racecourse near Newbridge, County Kildare, and host of Ireland's classic events including the Derby, the Oaks, and the St. Leger. Try to build your trip around one of the equestrian events: Buttevant (July), Connemara Pony Show (August), Dublin Horse Show (August), and Ballinasloe (October). I would love to go back for a race at Punchestown, the Dublin show, and ... the Laytown Races (July or August). The Laytown Races on are a beach in County Meath. Since 1876, the race begins after the tide has gone out and is between the horses, as well as between the horses and the incoming tide.
Mistakenly, again, I chose not to stay in the area but to press on towards Waterford with a stop in Kilkenny.
County Kilkenny, Ireland ...
One of the benefits of driving a car again, since it's something I no longer do on a daily basis given I live in Manhattan, is enjoying the freedom that it has always brought to me. I love driving with the windows down, my hair blowing wildly, and the volume of the radio loud. (Ahh, I miss my convertible.) A fabulous song was playing on the radio, Hey Soul Sister, from Train's Save Me San Francisco album.
Kilkenny is known to be one of Ireland's most delightful medieval towns. It sits on both banks of the meandering River Nore and became a city in 1609. There are many historic buildings to visit: Kilkenny Castle, St. Canice's Cathedral and round tower, Rothe House, Shee Alms House, the Black Abbey, St. Mary's Cathedral, the town hall, St. Francis Abbey, Grace's Castle, and St. John's Priory. It has a rich culture of craft and exquisite design workshops, fabulous restaurants, the Watergate Theatre, public gardens and museums.
Sounds lovely, doesn't it?
Yes, well, I wouldn't know seeing how Emily and I were still not speaking the same language! I spent so much time trying to get to Kilkenny and kept ending up in obscure little intersections in the middle of nowhere. Finally, Emily directed me to a town that was not Kilkenny but was ... Thomastown (11 miles southeast of Kilkenny). Thank ... you ... Emily. I made a quick stop in the centre of this quaint town to stretch my legs, then hopped in the car to make way to Waterford. And guess what was on the radio? Yes, that fantastic song, Hey Soul Sister!
Just about 8 miles before reaching Waterford, I came across a quaint pub and guesthouse on in the town of Mullinavat. A restored ale house built in 1644 during the Cromwellian era, The Rising Sun Guesthouse & Lounge was quintessential Ireland. It was rustic stone with bright red doors, window framing, shutters and roof. It reminded me of the taverns back in the day of Paul Revere. And as it was now approaching 4:30pm and I hadn't had lunch, I decided to stop for a bite at the pub.
As soon as I walked in, the few people there, locals, gave me an quizzical look then quickly turned their attention back to the television or to the window where they could watch two ladies across the street planting flowers in the pots that decorated the street. I teased the bartender and told him that I'd never heard a pub so quiet before. The locals looked at me but I didn't even get a chuckle out of them! This was the only time during my visit in Ireland that I didn't feel like I was wrapped in a warm, cozy blanket.
I took a seat at the bar and, to my amazement, chicken curry was on the menu! Is this an Irish thing?? My neighborhood Irish pub, The Hairy Monk, in Manhattan serves the most delicious chicken curry. I've always thought it was odd given curry is an Indian dish. They even offer it 'half & half' ~ instead of be served on rice, it comes on 1/2 rice and 1/2 french fried potatoes. And ... The Rising Sun offers it the same way! I ordered mine as 1/2 & 1/2 and enjoyed it with a pint of Guinness. (It wasn't as good as The Hairy Monk's, but it was nice to know that chicken curry is an Irish dish.)
I was so tired after my meal that I decided to spend the night here in their guesthouse. The room was clean and extremely large, as was the bathroom, albeit simple in taste. I took a walk around the little town and the fresh Irish air smelled delicious. Grass. Flowers. Trees. I love the way the Irish decorate their yards, their lands, with natural items. It's very common to see hedges that are made up of different types of bushes which give a pattern of different colors (see the house and yard below). And, yes, a few cows tossed in. A cup of tea in my room then I was fast asleep by 9:30 pm.
What should have taken about 2-2.5 hours to drive from Dublin to Waterford took me 4 hours.
It had been a long day.
County Waterford, Ireland ...
Early this next morning, I decided to try the traditional Irish breakfast before heading into Waterford. Hmm. I can't say that I enjoyed it. What everyone says is true...it could clog the healthiest of arteries.
And ... greeting me as I pulled out of the parking lot for the short drive into Waterford ... Hey Soul Sister. Again.
Today is another day flying by. I've walked around the town centre of Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland, in hopes of finding something worthwhile so I may tell you that it is worth a visit. It is so sad that this town has been waiting almost 2 years for the new Waterford Crystal facility to open after the original was closed when the company was acquired. Families who have worked at Waterford for generations found themselves without employment. I do hope the new owning company has provided for these families during these past two years. (The new facility was scheduled to open last month, June 2010. As of 6/1, it had not opened.)
I can envision this town bustling with visitors anxious to purchase the exquisite crystal. Shopkeepers proudly selling the crystal for which the town was known. But those are times past. Sadly, quaint shops are now home to cheap clothing stores. Storefronts have not been changed so they speak of crystal and Irish sweaters but contain cheap trinkets and clothing or pharmacies. Only Kelly's and Shaw's department stores remain and have a few original pieces of Waterford Crystal for sale. I feel the need to buy a piece of the original crystal just to support the town & my principles...but I have several items on my gift list yet to purchase.
Net net of the past 24 hours? I must return to Ireland to explore County Kildare, attend a few horse races, and explore the town of Kilkenny.
Next up: Counties Cork, Kerry, and Limerick ...
Don't make the mistake of thinking you can explore even half of Ireland in 10 days. There is so much to experience that if you drive even 15 miles without stopping, you've definitely missed something spectacular!
My Recommendations:
Must Do's ...
- Drive! - don't hire a driver; do rent a GPS; learn to drive the roundabouts (instructions below)
- Explore Dublin's hinterlands:
- Begin visiting castles along your travels - start with Malahide Castle
- Newgrange - one of Ireland's most important archaeological discoveries. A passage 'burial' tomb mound built between circa 3100 & 2900 BC that is an interlocking system of large stones (no mortar nor cement was used).
- Powerscourt Estate - a large 47 acre country estate with beautiful landscaped gardens which was originally a 13th century castle (located near Enniskerry, County Wicklow). It's position was of strategic military importance as the owner could control access to the Dargle, Glencree and Glencullen rivers.
- The town of Wicklow was one of the bases used by the Vikings on the east coast.
- Kildare horse country - see Punchestown racecourse, attend a race
- Waterford - until the new factory opens it's really a 'has been' town. It's scheduled to open this month, but even then I suggest waiting to see if the quality of crystal lives up to its heritage. Now, that said, being located on the water is lovely.
I smile on the memories ...
How to maneuver driving roundabouts ...
Mark, the extremely handsome cab driver who took me to pick up my rental car, taught me the most important lesson of my trip ... how to drive roundabouts! I was nervous about driving on the left side of the road, which turned out to be a piece of cake, but he cautioned me about roundabouts. I shared my strategy: stay in the outside left lane and if I miss my 'exit', then I'll simply keep driving around until I can make it.
"And that," said Mark, "is why you Americans cause so many accidents!"
As he explained the proper way to drive them, I didn't get it. So he kindly said we'd drive through a few together. Ahhh, I got it! I was viewing roundabouts as roads with exits, when in fact they're simply intersections without corners. So you maneuver them as you would an intersection:
- Turning Left - enter the roundabout from the far left lane with your turn signal on, stay in the outside left lane of the roundabout, and take the first road to your left.
- Going Straight - if you want to take the road that exits the roundabout straight in front of you, you enter from the right lane, stay in the inside lane of the roundabout, drive around the center and take the 2nd road.
- Turning Right - likewise, if you want to take the road that goes to the right, enter the roundabout from the right lane, stay in the inside lane of the roundabout, drive around the center, and take the 3rd road.
So learning to drive roundabouts was easy.
Collaborating with Emily was not.
Emily is the lovely woman on my GPS system. It took that first day for us to get our groove on. And as such, needless to say, I ended up driving in circles and far off the path of where I was heading ...
County Kildare, Ireland ...
I had originally wanted to visit County Kildare and the town of Kildare. Something was calling me there and telling me I needed to go. But I left Dublin later than planned that day, as I simply had to tour Trinity College, and I really wanted to get through Waterford so I could have an early start west the next morning. So, mistakenly, I decided to skip Kildare and go straight to Kilkenny then on to Waterford.
Because I wasn't understanding Emily very well, I ended up missing exits or exiting too soon. Given my adventurous nature, instead of back-tracking I allowed Emily to simply calculate a new route. After making several blunders ...
... the road turned and I found myself in awe of the glorious rolling fields in front of me. The grass looked manicured but was long enough for me to see it blowing in the breeze. The fields were wide open and the grass was the greenest I'd ever seen (until I saw Kerry the next day, that is). There was a large sign, Punchestown Racecourse, and in the distance behind it I could see the lovely racecourse. I was in horse country!! I was reminded of Lexington, Kentucky, horse capital of the United States and near my hometown of Cincinnati (and Keeneland Racecourse). While Lexington has an elegant, prestigious, white-fenced charm, Punchestown was more classic elegance with country charm.
I was in the heart of Ireland's thoroughbred country. Every April, the Punchestown Racecourse hosts the big race of Naas, the county seat of County Kildare. Ireland is known for being where the world's best thoroughbreds are reared and trained.
There are meets throughout the year across the countryside. The Curragh, is the famous Irish racecourse near Newbridge, County Kildare, and host of Ireland's classic events including the Derby, the Oaks, and the St. Leger. Try to build your trip around one of the equestrian events: Buttevant (July), Connemara Pony Show (August), Dublin Horse Show (August), and Ballinasloe (October). I would love to go back for a race at Punchestown, the Dublin show, and ... the Laytown Races (July or August). The Laytown Races on are a beach in County Meath. Since 1876, the race begins after the tide has gone out and is between the horses, as well as between the horses and the incoming tide.
Mistakenly, again, I chose not to stay in the area but to press on towards Waterford with a stop in Kilkenny.
County Kilkenny, Ireland ...
One of the benefits of driving a car again, since it's something I no longer do on a daily basis given I live in Manhattan, is enjoying the freedom that it has always brought to me. I love driving with the windows down, my hair blowing wildly, and the volume of the radio loud. (Ahh, I miss my convertible.) A fabulous song was playing on the radio, Hey Soul Sister, from Train's Save Me San Francisco album.
Kilkenny is known to be one of Ireland's most delightful medieval towns. It sits on both banks of the meandering River Nore and became a city in 1609. There are many historic buildings to visit: Kilkenny Castle, St. Canice's Cathedral and round tower, Rothe House, Shee Alms House, the Black Abbey, St. Mary's Cathedral, the town hall, St. Francis Abbey, Grace's Castle, and St. John's Priory. It has a rich culture of craft and exquisite design workshops, fabulous restaurants, the Watergate Theatre, public gardens and museums.
Sounds lovely, doesn't it?
Yes, well, I wouldn't know seeing how Emily and I were still not speaking the same language! I spent so much time trying to get to Kilkenny and kept ending up in obscure little intersections in the middle of nowhere. Finally, Emily directed me to a town that was not Kilkenny but was ... Thomastown (11 miles southeast of Kilkenny). Thank ... you ... Emily. I made a quick stop in the centre of this quaint town to stretch my legs, then hopped in the car to make way to Waterford. And guess what was on the radio? Yes, that fantastic song, Hey Soul Sister!
Just about 8 miles before reaching Waterford, I came across a quaint pub and guesthouse on in the town of Mullinavat. A restored ale house built in 1644 during the Cromwellian era, The Rising Sun Guesthouse & Lounge was quintessential Ireland. It was rustic stone with bright red doors, window framing, shutters and roof. It reminded me of the taverns back in the day of Paul Revere. And as it was now approaching 4:30pm and I hadn't had lunch, I decided to stop for a bite at the pub.
As soon as I walked in, the few people there, locals, gave me an quizzical look then quickly turned their attention back to the television or to the window where they could watch two ladies across the street planting flowers in the pots that decorated the street. I teased the bartender and told him that I'd never heard a pub so quiet before. The locals looked at me but I didn't even get a chuckle out of them! This was the only time during my visit in Ireland that I didn't feel like I was wrapped in a warm, cozy blanket.
I took a seat at the bar and, to my amazement, chicken curry was on the menu! Is this an Irish thing?? My neighborhood Irish pub, The Hairy Monk, in Manhattan serves the most delicious chicken curry. I've always thought it was odd given curry is an Indian dish. They even offer it 'half & half' ~ instead of be served on rice, it comes on 1/2 rice and 1/2 french fried potatoes. And ... The Rising Sun offers it the same way! I ordered mine as 1/2 & 1/2 and enjoyed it with a pint of Guinness. (It wasn't as good as The Hairy Monk's, but it was nice to know that chicken curry is an Irish dish.)
I was so tired after my meal that I decided to spend the night here in their guesthouse. The room was clean and extremely large, as was the bathroom, albeit simple in taste. I took a walk around the little town and the fresh Irish air smelled delicious. Grass. Flowers. Trees. I love the way the Irish decorate their yards, their lands, with natural items. It's very common to see hedges that are made up of different types of bushes which give a pattern of different colors (see the house and yard below). And, yes, a few cows tossed in. A cup of tea in my room then I was fast asleep by 9:30 pm.
What should have taken about 2-2.5 hours to drive from Dublin to Waterford took me 4 hours.
It had been a long day.
County Waterford, Ireland ...
Early this next morning, I decided to try the traditional Irish breakfast before heading into Waterford. Hmm. I can't say that I enjoyed it. What everyone says is true...it could clog the healthiest of arteries.
And ... greeting me as I pulled out of the parking lot for the short drive into Waterford ... Hey Soul Sister. Again.
Today is another day flying by. I've walked around the town centre of Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland, in hopes of finding something worthwhile so I may tell you that it is worth a visit. It is so sad that this town has been waiting almost 2 years for the new Waterford Crystal facility to open after the original was closed when the company was acquired. Families who have worked at Waterford for generations found themselves without employment. I do hope the new owning company has provided for these families during these past two years. (The new facility was scheduled to open last month, June 2010. As of 6/1, it had not opened.)
I can envision this town bustling with visitors anxious to purchase the exquisite crystal. Shopkeepers proudly selling the crystal for which the town was known. But those are times past. Sadly, quaint shops are now home to cheap clothing stores. Storefronts have not been changed so they speak of crystal and Irish sweaters but contain cheap trinkets and clothing or pharmacies. Only Kelly's and Shaw's department stores remain and have a few original pieces of Waterford Crystal for sale. I feel the need to buy a piece of the original crystal just to support the town & my principles...but I have several items on my gift list yet to purchase.
Net net of the past 24 hours? I must return to Ireland to explore County Kildare, attend a few horse races, and explore the town of Kilkenny.
Next up: Counties Cork, Kerry, and Limerick ...
Saturday, July 3, 2010
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Exploring: County Dublin, Ireland
As I begin my posts of my journey around Ireland, I dedicate them to my father, Charles Donald Burke, who has spent years researching and documenting our Irish heritage. I so wish you could have joined me, Dad. Happy Father's Day! Love, Me
My Recommendations:
Must Do's ...
My First Trip to Dublin ...
(Preface: forthcoming posts on the other regions of Ireland should not be as long as this one as I only spent a day or two in each of them.)
Arriving at Aer Lingus in the JFK International airport in New York, it was almost surreal for me. I have always wanted to explore Ireland's green fields. After rescheduling this trip 2 times this year already, and after hearing my Dad rattle off our Irish genealogy for many years now, it was a bit difficult to grasp that I was actually on my way.
At the Irish pub in the JFK airport, Tigin, I watched the many tourists on their way to Ireland who, in their excitement, had chosen to wear green. And proudly, I might add. Some even had matching shirts with "Ireland, Summer 2010." I shake my head. Tourists. (I refer to tourists in the third person as I am a traveler, not a tourist, you see.) I met several wonderful people on my journey to Ireland ... Regina, who visited NYC 21 years ago and stayed; a lovely older couple who were such fun & so much in love; the young man who sat next to me that was on his way to Bologna, Italy to be married; a few of the Aer Lingus flight attendants.
Aer Lingus was fantastic...very friendly, easy travel. The only inconveniences are seating is a bit short on the leg room, and drinks are not served with dinner (although they do advise you of this when beverages are served before dinner).
When I arrived at The Fitzwilliam Hotel on St. Stephen's Green early Saturday morning, knowing I would be early for check-in, I had scheduled a massage at their in-house Spirit Spa. I was a bit early for the massage, so the hotel staff kindly escorted me to their lobby where a fire was burning in the fireplace and the sofas were inviting. It was a chilly and rainy morning, so a comfortable sofa near a fire, and in a trendy setting, was perfect. I felt a bit spoiled when a tray of tea and biscuits were brought to me. Ahh...perfect after my journey as I did not sleep well on the flight. The Fitzwilliam Hotel is in the perfect location...at the intersection which has the main entrance to St. Stephen's Green, the St. Stephen's Green shopping mall, Grafton Street shopping, Gaiety Theatre, and many pubs and nightclubs.
Ursula Daly, I.T.E.C and I.M.T.A., is a lovely massage therapist and aesthetistician. Being very spiritual and holistic, she provided me with guidance on my overall wellness in addition to the incredible massage. We had such a kindred spirit connection, that she gave me the cd she had playing because I so enjoyed the music. (Evidently, she never gives her cds away.) The music is very relaxing: Bliss, A Hundred Thousand Angels. "Be wise: Always try to live in perfect harmony with your own nature."
After my massage, I was still early for check-in so I had some lunch in the hotel restaurant. During lunch, the helpful woman from the front desk brought my room key to me as it was now ready, and advised that my luggage had just been taken up. My room was amazing! Very trendy boutique in style, very roomy, and the smallest of detail was given attention. I felt spoiled every moment I spent in my room. I was also very impressed with service and attention I received throughout my entire stay. The staff even knew me by name.
A quick shower then I was out exploring the streets of Dublin!
I strolled through St. Stephen's Green just across the street from my hotel. At 22 acres, it's the largest of the parks in Dublin's main Georgian squares. Phoenix Park is the largest park in Dublin city, but is not in a Georgian square. The park is so sweet and lovely, and a great place for early morning runs. I highly spending a couple hours relaxing in this lovely park.
As I wandered around Grafton Street, the highly recommended shopping area, I was greatly disappointed. The only worthwhile shops on this street are Karen Millen who has the most beautiful collection of dresses (but I can find this shop in SoHo, NYC), and Brown Thomas whose shoe department is better than most Manhattan department stores. The rest is your basic US mall, and not even many of those shops given the amount of pharmacies. I was so disappointed that I sent Stacey a text, a girlfriend in London, for guidance. Evidently, this is it on the shopping with an Irish exception just around the corner from Grafton Street, Avoca, a store of wovens, housewares, and accessories. A lovely shop and cafe. It's a good thing that I really don't like shopping!
I made my way to the Temple Bar area which is very quaint and fun. Located on the south bank of the River Liffey, unlike the surround areas it has preserved its medieval street pattern, with many narrow cobbled streets. It is extremely touristy, very young, and has very expensive drinks. Making my way down to the river I crossed the famous Ha' Penny Bridge, built in 1816, into North City Center. Not much was happening there so I returned to Temple Bar and found a bar with some great music. After seeing a few groups of American men perk up when I entered, I grabbed a beer and made my way to where the locals were. And there, I became mesmerized...obsessed...a big fan of the game of Hurling! Wow! The game is very strategic and, well, those Irishmen are MEN!
The Gaiety Theatre is around the corner from the hotel, so I stopped by and picked up a ticket for that evening's closing performance of Shawshank Redemption. I really wanted to see something light-hearted, but more so I wanted to see a performance at this 'Grand Old Lady of South King Street' that opened in 1871 (featuring operatic and musical productions, with occasional dramatic shows). Surprisingly, this performance was the strongest performance I've seen in a long time, even as compared to Broadway (with the exceptions of Wicked and August: Osage Count). Kevin Anderson and John Jelks gave such strong performances you thought you were watching Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman!
While I waited for the performance to begin, a lovely couple sat next to me. Joan & Andrew. We hung out together during the intermission over a pint, then after the performance we went to hit the pub across the street, Sinnot's Bar, and I was shocked to find it downstairs and the size of 4 American pubs! Joan, Andrew & I spent the evening getting to know each other and...well...laughing our heads off! They are such a fun couple! We wrapped up the night with a nightcap at The Oval Office pub at Shanahan's Restaurant which is in a lovely Georgian townhouse. The American owner, John Shanahan, created Hooked on Phonics.
The next day I utilized the Hop On-Hop Off double-decker tour bus system to get around the city quickly and see the key sights, hopping off at the ones I wanted to explore. These seem a bit cheesy, but I've learned they're fantastic at ensuring you see everything you want in a shorter period of time. I always recommend spending the first 2 days in a city on these buses (a great tip given to me by the late actor Roy Stuart when I was to visit Paris for the first time). While Dublin isn't a large city, so it's easy to walk around, there are several key sights that are outside of the city centre. Any hotel can provide you with information on these buses and, of course, so can the Visitor's Center located in an old church.
My first exploration was Dublin Castle. Founded in 1204 by King John of England, until 1922 it was the fortified seat of British rule in Ireland. It is now a major Irish government complex. The tour is worth the euros as you learn much about Dublin's history. I visited Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick's Cathedral. The Guinness Storehouse is, of course, very touristy. I don't recommend this stop. While I didn't take the tour, I did go to the top floor bar for the 360 view of Dublin and free pint of Guinness. And by going to the top for my 'free' pint, it cost me the 15 euros as if I'd taken the tour. I'm not a big beer drinker & have never liked Guinness, but in Ireland it's smooth, creamy, and doesn't have a bite. My regret here isn't skipping the tour. My regret is not being able to shake the American motorcycle guy who saw me at Quays Bar the day before and took this opportunity to attach himself to me.
Kilmainham Gaol. If you see nothing else, you must see this jail. A former prison where many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned, tortured, and some executed from 1796 until 1924 by the British and by the Irish Free State. This is where the Easter Rising leaders, Patrick Pearse, James Connolly and other founding fathers of Ireland were jailed and executed. Ireland's fight for freedom is best told from insight this prison than anywhere else. It's only three miles from City Centre, and now houses an educational center that covers both the heroic and tragic struggles from the 1780s to the 1920s. There is a tour that includes the interior as well as the errie stone-breakers yard where some of the rebels were shot.
(Note: The Saville Inquiry, established in 1998 to look at the 1972 Bloody Sunday events in Northern Ireland was just made public on June 15, 2010. It contained findings of fault that could re-open the controversy, and potentially lead to criminal investigations for some soldiers involved in the killings.)
Trinity College, Ireland's oldest university, was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I and is also one of the oldest universities in Western Europe. The grounds are so beautiful and its history is captivating. The Library's famous Long Room is quite overwhelming. The pedestals of marble busts. The alcoves of books. Smell of old leather and ancient word. The soft sounds of thought and knowledge so abundant and overwhelming. I paused to take it all in. Smiling. Only if these shelves were filled with shoes could it also please me this much. As I turned to leave, I saw that I had been standing in front of the bust of Edmond Burke.
Trinity College is also home to the Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is an illustrated manuscript Gospel in Latin which contains the four Gospels of the New Testament along with various prefatory texts and tables. It was created by Celtic Monks circa 800 or a wee bit earlier. Pay the 10 euros for a student guided 45 minute tour, which includes entry into the Long Hall and the Book of Kells exhibit ... you won't be disappointed.
The Museums in Dublin are very impressive. Visit the National Art Gallery, Writers Museum, and National Museum (decorative arts & history).
One of the two best meals I had in Ireland was in Dublin at Peploe's Wine Bistro, on St. Stephen's Green. It's just a few stairs down from the sidewalk into a lovely red brick Georgian building that is covered with ivy. I began with Kir Royal as an apertif, then Irish beef carpaccio. The carpaccio was a bit tough but very flavorful. My entree was swordfish with caponata and potato. On its own, the swordfish was a bit salty for my taste, but, with a proper bite with the caponata and greens positioned beneath it on the plate, it was sheer perfection! I don't typically order desert, but, I was on vacation! The rhubarb strawberry crumble was...shhh...better than my Grandma Burke's! Now, how IS that possible?? And the cappuccino was the best I've had outside of Rome. Service was classic and attentive without being annoying. My compliments to Chef Sebastian Scheer!
For Nightlife, check out these fabulous places: Dandelion Bar Club (Best Nightclub 2010), O'Donoghues Bar for Irish music, and Porterhouse.
It was time to leave Dublin. I had already delayed my departure by a day & a half. As I waited for a taxi, I tried not to think about the fact that I'll be driving on the left side of the road shortly. I was quite nervous, but ...
"Do One Thing Every Day That Scares You!"
The explorations continue ... stay tuned for the next Irish county!
My Recommendations:
Must Do's ...
- Kilmainham Gaol
- Trinity College
- Museums - National Art Gallery, Writers Museum, National Museum (decorative arts & history)
- Dublin Castle
- Gaiety Theatre
- St. Stephen's Green
- Guinness Beer
- Nightlife: Grafton Street pubs and clubs including Dandelion Bar Club (won Best Nightclub 2010), Porterhouse, O'Donoghues Bar, and Shanagan's elegant pub for a nightcap. For the younger & tourist crowd, definitely go to the Temple Bar area.
- The Fitzwilliam Hotel
- Hop On - Hop Off Bus Tour
- Grafton Street Shopping
- Guinness Storehouse
My First Trip to Dublin ...
(Preface: forthcoming posts on the other regions of Ireland should not be as long as this one as I only spent a day or two in each of them.)
Arriving at Aer Lingus in the JFK International airport in New York, it was almost surreal for me. I have always wanted to explore Ireland's green fields. After rescheduling this trip 2 times this year already, and after hearing my Dad rattle off our Irish genealogy for many years now, it was a bit difficult to grasp that I was actually on my way.
At the Irish pub in the JFK airport, Tigin, I watched the many tourists on their way to Ireland who, in their excitement, had chosen to wear green. And proudly, I might add. Some even had matching shirts with "Ireland, Summer 2010." I shake my head. Tourists. (I refer to tourists in the third person as I am a traveler, not a tourist, you see.) I met several wonderful people on my journey to Ireland ... Regina, who visited NYC 21 years ago and stayed; a lovely older couple who were such fun & so much in love; the young man who sat next to me that was on his way to Bologna, Italy to be married; a few of the Aer Lingus flight attendants.
Aer Lingus was fantastic...very friendly, easy travel. The only inconveniences are seating is a bit short on the leg room, and drinks are not served with dinner (although they do advise you of this when beverages are served before dinner).
When I arrived at The Fitzwilliam Hotel on St. Stephen's Green early Saturday morning, knowing I would be early for check-in, I had scheduled a massage at their in-house Spirit Spa. I was a bit early for the massage, so the hotel staff kindly escorted me to their lobby where a fire was burning in the fireplace and the sofas were inviting. It was a chilly and rainy morning, so a comfortable sofa near a fire, and in a trendy setting, was perfect. I felt a bit spoiled when a tray of tea and biscuits were brought to me. Ahh...perfect after my journey as I did not sleep well on the flight. The Fitzwilliam Hotel is in the perfect location...at the intersection which has the main entrance to St. Stephen's Green, the St. Stephen's Green shopping mall, Grafton Street shopping, Gaiety Theatre, and many pubs and nightclubs.
Ursula Daly, I.T.E.C and I.M.T.A., is a lovely massage therapist and aesthetistician. Being very spiritual and holistic, she provided me with guidance on my overall wellness in addition to the incredible massage. We had such a kindred spirit connection, that she gave me the cd she had playing because I so enjoyed the music. (Evidently, she never gives her cds away.) The music is very relaxing: Bliss, A Hundred Thousand Angels. "Be wise: Always try to live in perfect harmony with your own nature."
After my massage, I was still early for check-in so I had some lunch in the hotel restaurant. During lunch, the helpful woman from the front desk brought my room key to me as it was now ready, and advised that my luggage had just been taken up. My room was amazing! Very trendy boutique in style, very roomy, and the smallest of detail was given attention. I felt spoiled every moment I spent in my room. I was also very impressed with service and attention I received throughout my entire stay. The staff even knew me by name.
A quick shower then I was out exploring the streets of Dublin!
I strolled through St. Stephen's Green just across the street from my hotel. At 22 acres, it's the largest of the parks in Dublin's main Georgian squares. Phoenix Park is the largest park in Dublin city, but is not in a Georgian square. The park is so sweet and lovely, and a great place for early morning runs. I highly spending a couple hours relaxing in this lovely park.
As I wandered around Grafton Street, the highly recommended shopping area, I was greatly disappointed. The only worthwhile shops on this street are Karen Millen who has the most beautiful collection of dresses (but I can find this shop in SoHo, NYC), and Brown Thomas whose shoe department is better than most Manhattan department stores. The rest is your basic US mall, and not even many of those shops given the amount of pharmacies. I was so disappointed that I sent Stacey a text, a girlfriend in London, for guidance. Evidently, this is it on the shopping with an Irish exception just around the corner from Grafton Street, Avoca, a store of wovens, housewares, and accessories. A lovely shop and cafe. It's a good thing that I really don't like shopping!
I made my way to the Temple Bar area which is very quaint and fun. Located on the south bank of the River Liffey, unlike the surround areas it has preserved its medieval street pattern, with many narrow cobbled streets. It is extremely touristy, very young, and has very expensive drinks. Making my way down to the river I crossed the famous Ha' Penny Bridge, built in 1816, into North City Center. Not much was happening there so I returned to Temple Bar and found a bar with some great music. After seeing a few groups of American men perk up when I entered, I grabbed a beer and made my way to where the locals were. And there, I became mesmerized...obsessed...a big fan of the game of Hurling! Wow! The game is very strategic and, well, those Irishmen are MEN!
The Gaiety Theatre is around the corner from the hotel, so I stopped by and picked up a ticket for that evening's closing performance of Shawshank Redemption. I really wanted to see something light-hearted, but more so I wanted to see a performance at this 'Grand Old Lady of South King Street' that opened in 1871 (featuring operatic and musical productions, with occasional dramatic shows). Surprisingly, this performance was the strongest performance I've seen in a long time, even as compared to Broadway (with the exceptions of Wicked and August: Osage Count). Kevin Anderson and John Jelks gave such strong performances you thought you were watching Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman!
While I waited for the performance to begin, a lovely couple sat next to me. Joan & Andrew. We hung out together during the intermission over a pint, then after the performance we went to hit the pub across the street, Sinnot's Bar, and I was shocked to find it downstairs and the size of 4 American pubs! Joan, Andrew & I spent the evening getting to know each other and...well...laughing our heads off! They are such a fun couple! We wrapped up the night with a nightcap at The Oval Office pub at Shanahan's Restaurant which is in a lovely Georgian townhouse. The American owner, John Shanahan, created Hooked on Phonics.
The next day I utilized the Hop On-Hop Off double-decker tour bus system to get around the city quickly and see the key sights, hopping off at the ones I wanted to explore. These seem a bit cheesy, but I've learned they're fantastic at ensuring you see everything you want in a shorter period of time. I always recommend spending the first 2 days in a city on these buses (a great tip given to me by the late actor Roy Stuart when I was to visit Paris for the first time). While Dublin isn't a large city, so it's easy to walk around, there are several key sights that are outside of the city centre. Any hotel can provide you with information on these buses and, of course, so can the Visitor's Center located in an old church.
My first exploration was Dublin Castle. Founded in 1204 by King John of England, until 1922 it was the fortified seat of British rule in Ireland. It is now a major Irish government complex. The tour is worth the euros as you learn much about Dublin's history. I visited Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick's Cathedral. The Guinness Storehouse is, of course, very touristy. I don't recommend this stop. While I didn't take the tour, I did go to the top floor bar for the 360 view of Dublin and free pint of Guinness. And by going to the top for my 'free' pint, it cost me the 15 euros as if I'd taken the tour. I'm not a big beer drinker & have never liked Guinness, but in Ireland it's smooth, creamy, and doesn't have a bite. My regret here isn't skipping the tour. My regret is not being able to shake the American motorcycle guy who saw me at Quays Bar the day before and took this opportunity to attach himself to me.
Kilmainham Gaol. If you see nothing else, you must see this jail. A former prison where many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned, tortured, and some executed from 1796 until 1924 by the British and by the Irish Free State. This is where the Easter Rising leaders, Patrick Pearse, James Connolly and other founding fathers of Ireland were jailed and executed. Ireland's fight for freedom is best told from insight this prison than anywhere else. It's only three miles from City Centre, and now houses an educational center that covers both the heroic and tragic struggles from the 1780s to the 1920s. There is a tour that includes the interior as well as the errie stone-breakers yard where some of the rebels were shot.
(Note: The Saville Inquiry, established in 1998 to look at the 1972 Bloody Sunday events in Northern Ireland was just made public on June 15, 2010. It contained findings of fault that could re-open the controversy, and potentially lead to criminal investigations for some soldiers involved in the killings.)
Trinity College, Ireland's oldest university, was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I and is also one of the oldest universities in Western Europe. The grounds are so beautiful and its history is captivating. The Library's famous Long Room is quite overwhelming. The pedestals of marble busts. The alcoves of books. Smell of old leather and ancient word. The soft sounds of thought and knowledge so abundant and overwhelming. I paused to take it all in. Smiling. Only if these shelves were filled with shoes could it also please me this much. As I turned to leave, I saw that I had been standing in front of the bust of Edmond Burke.
Trinity College is also home to the Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is an illustrated manuscript Gospel in Latin which contains the four Gospels of the New Testament along with various prefatory texts and tables. It was created by Celtic Monks circa 800 or a wee bit earlier. Pay the 10 euros for a student guided 45 minute tour, which includes entry into the Long Hall and the Book of Kells exhibit ... you won't be disappointed.
The Museums in Dublin are very impressive. Visit the National Art Gallery, Writers Museum, and National Museum (decorative arts & history).
One of the two best meals I had in Ireland was in Dublin at Peploe's Wine Bistro, on St. Stephen's Green. It's just a few stairs down from the sidewalk into a lovely red brick Georgian building that is covered with ivy. I began with Kir Royal as an apertif, then Irish beef carpaccio. The carpaccio was a bit tough but very flavorful. My entree was swordfish with caponata and potato. On its own, the swordfish was a bit salty for my taste, but, with a proper bite with the caponata and greens positioned beneath it on the plate, it was sheer perfection! I don't typically order desert, but, I was on vacation! The rhubarb strawberry crumble was...shhh...better than my Grandma Burke's! Now, how IS that possible?? And the cappuccino was the best I've had outside of Rome. Service was classic and attentive without being annoying. My compliments to Chef Sebastian Scheer!
For Nightlife, check out these fabulous places: Dandelion Bar Club (Best Nightclub 2010), O'Donoghues Bar for Irish music, and Porterhouse.
It was time to leave Dublin. I had already delayed my departure by a day & a half. As I waited for a taxi, I tried not to think about the fact that I'll be driving on the left side of the road shortly. I was quite nervous, but ...
"Do One Thing Every Day That Scares You!"
The explorations continue ... stay tuned for the next Irish county!
Sunday, June 13, 2010
"Bionn Siulach Scealach" ~ Ireland
I'm back from my trip to The Emerald Isle!
Thank you to everyone who shared their recommendations with me. I took all into consideration, made a list of the 'must do's', and then traveled EuroK style by going wherever the wind blew me.
And thank you to Stacey who flew over from London to hang out with me for a bit!
I will admit that I did not want to come home! I have so much to share. My wanderings, experiences, people I've met, and my recommendations. There's so much that I'm going to share them with you via separate posts, each of which will focus in on one county/region of Ireland. For all of you who simply want the facts, I'll begin each post with a quick list of my recommendations (do's and don'ts). And then, for those who would like to relive my journey with me, I'll share my experiences.
To answer the question I'm constantly being asked, I didn't have any problems driving on the left side of the road. I was so nervous about it, but ... it was a piece of cake!
Sit tight. County Dublin will be the first post ...
Saturday, June 12, 2010
"Do One Thing Every Day That Scares You."
For Killarney ...
we'll do it all
everything
on our own
we don't need
anything
or anyone
if I lay here
if I just lay here
would you lie with me
and just forget the world?
I don't quite know
how to say
how I feel
and three words
are said too much
they're not enough
if I lay here
if I just lay here
would you lie with me
and just forget the world?
forget what we're told
before we get too old
show me a garden
that's bursting into life
let's waste time
chasing cars
around our heads
I need your grace
to remind me
to find my own
if I lay here
if I just lay here
would you lie with me
and just forget the world?
forget what we're told
before we get too old
show me a garden
that's bursting into life
that's bursting into life
all that I am
all that I ever was
is here in your perfect eyes
they're all I can see
I don't know where
confused about how as well
just know that these things
will never change for us at all
if I lay here
if I just lay here
would you lie with me
and just forget the world?
~ Chasing Cars by Snow Patrol
Thursday, June 10, 2010
Wandering into Synchronicity
A great story! I've omitted names to protect the guilty ...
He:
Super thirsty, I arrive at the bar in the St. Regis Hotel in Manhattan. There were two Russian babes sitting at the bar in the middle, and a lonely older guy to their left. I really don't want to speak with anyone. I just want one of those cold beers they serve in a frosted glass. (They always remind me of the Ice Hotel in Kiruna, Sweden.) So I sit next to the older guy and order a beer.
She:
It's been a long week and I'm exhausted. I'm looking forward to meeting my blind date but I must admit I'm more excited about our meeting location. I know me, and the chance I will find this guy intriguing is slim, at best. He had presented me with a choice of venues. Despite loving the alternate location, and after an unusual waffling on my part, my gut told me to choose the St. Regis. I walk in and see the gentleman I am supposed to meet sitting at the bar. Then, immediately, I see this hot guy standing on the other side of the bar stool that is clearly meant for me. Well, he's as hot as one can tell without seeing the face. I make a conscious effort to turn my complete attention to the man I'm meeting so I'm not rude to him.
He:
Five minutes later, this gorgeous babe arrives. I'm not quite sure why she is with the 'Oldie,' but I say to myself, "Lucky old dog!" And, I must admit, for just an instant I wonder if she is a super classy call girl.
She:
I share with this gentleman that I didn't re-read his profile because I like to get to know someone from through conversation. (Yes, I confess this is an online dating 'first meeting.') "So," I say, "tell me your life story!" And to my shock and dismay, he did! I sat there as he gave me his entire business life story.He:
I overhear the conversation where the Oldie spills out his resume. I'm still not sure if they're meeting for business or pleasure! I finish my beer and head over to The Peninsula Hotel.
She:
About 15 minutes into this resume-recitation, out of the corner of my eye I see hot guy leave. I'm disappointed, and wish I'd seen his face so I would know if he truly was hot. This is going to be a long evening. Sigh ...
He:
Time to bar hop ...
She:
I'm dropped off at home. It's 10pm on a Friday and I've had a week of long work hours, so the last thing I want is to be home. I text a few friends to see if anyone is out on the town, then hop in a cab back uptown to Philippe to meet a few of the girls. Champagne is flowing!
He:
A friend drops me off but I'm not really in a mood to go to bed. I head to Philippe for one last drink. I go to the bar and gorgeous babe is there without 'Oldie' and is with friends. My luck!
She:
This very attractive man walks past me. He has an incredibly handsome chiseled face. He makes eye contact as he walks by. He walks back to me and asks me if he saw me at ... ? Where?? It's loud in the bar & he has a French accent so I'm unable to understand what he's saying. I ask him to repeat himself and he does. Rather than confess that I still have no idea what he said and ask him to repeat yet again only louder, I pretend to understand & I respond 'yes.' I assume he's mistaken me for someone else or just laying a line on me. We fall into conversation.
He:
I talk to her. Great, she remembers me from the St. Regis! I'm so happy that she noticed me. She clearly doesn't want to talk about what she was doing there. That's ok. We talk and talk ... about random stuff like employers we've had. She introduces me to her friends.
She:
I introduce him to my friends. They give him a hard time and he plays up to it quite well. Impressive.
He:
Her faux-French friend admits that she is from Senegal and the little Brit dancer who does not know the difference between faux and real Champagne end up leaving. My lucky break!
They: ...
She:
As we're saying goodbye, he asks me what I was doing at the St Regis. OMG! He's 'Hot Guy'!!
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