Sadly, the last post in my series on exploring Ireland.
My Recommendations:
Must Do's ...
- Westport - Matt Malloy's Pub, Michael Gannon Photography
- Ennis - Old Ground Hotel; fantastic shopping; and absolutely fabulous traditional Irish music!
- Quentin Cooper, Eoin O'Neill, Eimear Howley - you simply must hear them play at Brogan's Bar & Restaurant in Ennis.
What You Can Skip ...
- Westport Woods Hotel & Spa: dingy room, terrible food, and the worst pedicure ever!
I continued my drive north into County Mayo towards the town of Westport ...
County Mayo
A lovely county, its largest city is populated with only 6,000 people (Castlebar).
When it comes to the ruling clans throughout County Mayo's history, I sense there are many more in this county than in the counties I'd visited to-date. The Vikings first raided in 795AD, but unlike the previous counties they didn't build settlements in County Mayo (of course, correct me if I'm wrong). O'Malley and O'Dowd clans were in the Naval fleet of Connacht while those of O'Lachtan, Mac Fhirbhisigh, and O'Cleary were clergy or artists.
In the 1200's, Richard Mor de Burgh invaded and the following clans came into the area: Burke, Gibbons, Staunton, Prendergast, Morris, Joyce, Walsh, Barrett, Lynott, Costello, and Padden. Coming out of this time, the most powerful clan was the Mac William Burkes (go Burkes!). Although the Bourkes were originally Anglo-Irish, they became very much gaelicised (see earlier posts for more on the Burke clan). Other clans that bopped in and out of County Mayo history include O'Kelly, O'Donnell.
The Pirate Queen Grainne O'Malley
I can't write about County Mayo without mentioning the Pirate Queen Grainne O'Malley (
Grace O'Malley), or The Sea Queen of Connaught as she's also referenced. There are films about her if you'd like to learn more about this strong and courageous woman. Her father was chieftain of the O Maille clan controlling Murrisk in the southwest and relying on directions of the Mac William Bourkes. As a young girl she had wanted to join her father at sea, but wasn't allowed given her gender. Grainne married an O'Flaherty, and after his death she married a Burke to gain his castle. When she later divorced him, she kept the castle. She had children with both husbands. Grainne was considered promiscuous and supposedly had a child with one of her lovers; and, one of them was 15 years her junior (hmm, and only
now has it become socially acceptable for a woman to be involved with a younger man). That said, it was typical of the time for a woman who didn't follow the social/cultural norms to be labeled as 'promiscuous.' (Oh my, I would have been considered uber promiscuous back then!)
Grace O'Malley is also known for her meeting with Queen Elizabeth I during which she refused to bow. Pirating, she was constantly encountering the Queen's navy. When arrested, she petitioned Queen Elizabeth for leniency in such a way that the Queen was moved and asked to meet behind closed doors. Grace and her men were released and given property on Ireland's coast. Grace’s son, Tibbott, was knighted by the Queen and became Sir Theobold Burke.
Westport
Located on a bay off of the Atlantic Ocean, touristy Westport is a quaint Georgian town with about only 3,000 inhabitants. It is overlooked by an extinct volcano, Croagh Patrick, and looks upon islands in the bay (including Clare Island where Grace O'Malley's castle was located). Supposedly, Saint Patrick spent a month in fast and prayer on Croagh Patrick. The last Sunday in July, many walk his footsteps to the summit for a mass and to ask forgiveness.
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| A church. |
The churches are lovely, 'The Mall' along the channel is lined with trees, the shops are lovely, and eighteenth century
Westport House holds many rareities including Waterford glass, silverware, and paintings. Home of the Marquess of Sligo, it now has a small zoo, and boating and sailing facilities on the grounds. While strolling the shops, I took a shine to the photographic works of Michael Gannon (
Michael Gannon Photography). They moved me.
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| The Mall |
After spending some time in town and [slightly] visiting Westport House, I backtracked to Westport Woods Hotel & Spa. It looked a bit woodsy on the outside indicating the spa would be close to nature and relaxing. I was tired. A massage, manicure, and pedicure sounded perfect. It was the worse stay of my entire trip. The room was basic and dingy. After I checked in, three buses of teenagers arrived much to my dismay. They played kickball behind the hotel and actually kicked the balls up onto the glass that served as the back wall of the restaurant and lobby area ... and the back wall of my room. The spa, Cedar Spa, was the worse. I had a mani/pedi was all. The worse pedicure I've ever had. The pink polish didn't fully cover my nails.
I found a pub with contemporary music spilling into the street's air. Matt Molloy's Bar. It looked fun. I sat at the bar, ordered my [now] usual Guinness, and began chatting with the men seated on both sides of me. Couples were pouring in and after filling this small front pub, they filled the larger back room where the live music was being played. This was an older crowd, in their 50's and 60's, and they still knew how to have fun! As it turns out, unbeknownst to me until I was at the bar for about an hour, this is the
famous Matt Molloy's Bar ~ owned by Matt Molloy, flute player of
The Chieftains! I recall hearing about this bar from friends years ago. In fact, just this very moment I learned that on January 27, 2011
Paddy Maloney was presented with the Medal of Honor for lifetime achievement in music by the
National Arts Club in New York City. (Paddy is the founder & leader of The Chieftains; from Donnycarney just north of Dublin.) Congratulations, Paddy!
After chatting with a guy at the bar for a few hours, I went back to my hotel for some sleep before hitting the road early the next morning ... south, back to Ennis for my last day in Ireland.
Ennis
This time when I rolled into Ennis I knew where I wanted to stay. When I was in Ennis earlier on the trip, I drove past this lovely stately hotel covered in ivy on my way to pick up Stacey at the Shannon Airport. When I arrived this time, it was a lovely sunny day. With this stay, my impression of Ennis was about to change completely!
I checked into the
Old Ground Hotel, an 18th century manor house, and was given a very large room that looked out onto a courtyard of trees, bushes, and bistro tables & chairs. I opened the windows to allow the cool breeze in, fixed a cup of tea, and sat looking onto the courtyard with my feet propped up on the window ledge. The weather was just the way I enjoy it ... sunny with a cold breeze that requires a sweater.
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| Old Ground Hotel |
It was very relaxing. Then, I took a stroll around the town ...
Across the street from the hotel and just outside of the Ennis Cathedral is a sculpture of two hands.
The limestone sculpture titled, Hands, was made by Shane Gilmore. It represents the following:
- Hands of Healing (the walk of Reconcilation by Bishop Willie Walsh)
- Hands of Welcome (presence of emigrants, asylum seekers, refugees, and EU citizens
- Hands of Peace (new era of peace in Ireland)
- Hands of Faith (faithfulness of parents & grandparents in passing on the Christian faith to the next generation)
- Hands of Cooperation (celebrating Ennis' tidiness)
“I will not forget you, I have carved your name on the palm of my hand.”
Isaiah 49:15
Strolling the streets and shops ...
I bought two fun dresses and a nice rolling briefcase. I receive so many compliments, from men & women, on my briefcase as I finally found one that wasn't leopard, tiger, nor a black basic case fit for a man!
My Last Night in Ireland ...
I went to
Brogan's Bar and Restaurant and was seated in the front room of the pub which serves as the dining room. All was quiet as the musicians were on break. I ordered dinner and thought about my trip. The many wonderful people I had met: the fabulous Joan & Andrew in Dublin, Phyllis at Bunratty Villa, Bern, Leon & Ted, Anne at Rockmount House. John Jelks, the actor, in Shawshank Redemption (who I still believe lives in my building). Driving on the left for the first time. Sipping the first Guinness I've ever enjoyed. St. Stephens Green. Killarney. Clifden. My lovely friend, Stacey. And ... I thought about my ancestors whom my father had traced back to
the William de Burgh (b 1343):
me
Charles Burke, my father
...
our history in Ireland:
Captain Thomas Burk (b 1741, Virginia, USA)
William Burk (b 1709-18 Limerick, Ireland; married an American)
John Bourke (b 1675-90 County Kildare, Ireland; married a McDougal)
Richard Bourke (b 1645-65 County Kildare, Ireland; married a ?)
John de Burgh (b 1609-15 in Kill, County Kildare, Ireland; married a Mountcasel)
Ulick 'mac An Larla' de Burgh (b 1542 in Tully, County Galway, Ireland, near Roscommon; married a ?)
Richard Sassananach de Burgh (b1525 in Clanricarde, County Galway, Ireland; married an O'Brien)
Uilleag na gCeann de Burgh (b 1505; married a MacCoghlan)
Richard M'or de Burgh (b 1530; married a Butler)
Uilleag Fionn de Burgh (b 1509)
Uilleag Ruadh de Burgh (b 1485)
Uilleag (William) Fhiona de Burgh (b 1423-24; married an O Kelly)
Richard 'og de Burgh (b 1387)
William de Burgh (b 1343)
1307, Donamon Castle, County Roscommon, occupied by the McDavid Burkes.
Donamon Castle one of the oldest inhabited buildings in Ireland. This was the seat of the O'Finnaghy clan until 1307 when it became property to the first of the Burkes. The McDavid Burkes occupied Donamon Castle for the next 300 years. In 1932, an IRA group lead by Sean McCool and Mick Price set up an IRA training camp at the castle.
Donamon Castle sits on the River Suck and today is owned by
Divine Word Missionaries.
I now understood, on a deeper level, why my family back in America are the way we are. If you were to take one step inside the home of one of my relatives, you would instantly be family and feel quite comfortable.
When I finished my meal, I was escorted into the extremely crowded room where everyone was sitting on teeny tiny stools around teeny tiny bar tables. It made me giggle to walk in, look down, and see the tops of heads! Sitting on a teeny tiny stool at a table with five others, I was enchanted.
Three men were playing as the featured musicians and several others were jamming along. The crowd would sing along with them. An old gentleman would get up and dance a traditional jig from time-to-time. A woman sitting in the back corner belted out the words to songs in the most beautiful Irish voice. We all felt as though we'd known each other for years. The young American guy aimlessly taking trains around Ireland and stopping here and there to work until he had fare for his next jaunt. The American woman from Boston who now lives on the northern coast of Kerry, writing and painting and giving advice to this American woman on how to wear my claddagh ring depending on whether I was single or taken. The locals.
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| The trio: Quentin Cooper, Eoin O'Neill, Eimear Howley |
I had to purchase the trio's cd, The Fiddle Case, so I could carry this evening with me always. This evening.
This enchanted evening ... was, quintessentially Irish.
The perfect farewell.
Slàinte mhòr!
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| Sinnotts Bar, Dublin |
