Don't make the mistake of thinking you can explore even half of Ireland in 10 days. There is so much to experience that if you drive even 15 miles without stopping, you've definitely missed something spectacular!
My Recommendations:
Must Do's ...
- Drive! - don't hire a driver; do rent a GPS; learn to drive the roundabouts (instructions below)
- Explore Dublin's hinterlands:
- Begin visiting castles along your travels - start with Malahide Castle
- Newgrange - one of Ireland's most important archaeological discoveries. A passage 'burial' tomb mound built between circa 3100 & 2900 BC that is an interlocking system of large stones (no mortar nor cement was used).
- Powerscourt Estate - a large 47 acre country estate with beautiful landscaped gardens which was originally a 13th century castle (located near Enniskerry, County Wicklow). It's position was of strategic military importance as the owner could control access to the Dargle, Glencree and Glencullen rivers.
- The town of Wicklow was one of the bases used by the Vikings on the east coast.
- Kildare horse country - see Punchestown racecourse, attend a race
- Waterford - until the new factory opens it's really a 'has been' town. It's scheduled to open this month, but even then I suggest waiting to see if the quality of crystal lives up to its heritage. Now, that said, being located on the water is lovely.
I smile on the memories ...
How to maneuver driving roundabouts ...
Mark, the extremely handsome cab driver who took me to pick up my rental car, taught me the most important lesson of my trip ... how to drive roundabouts! I was nervous about driving on the left side of the road, which turned out to be a piece of cake, but he cautioned me about roundabouts. I shared my strategy: stay in the outside left lane and if I miss my 'exit', then I'll simply keep driving around until I can make it.
"And that," said Mark, "is why you Americans cause so many accidents!"
As he explained the proper way to drive them, I didn't get it. So he kindly said we'd drive through a few together. Ahhh, I got it! I was viewing roundabouts as roads with exits, when in fact they're simply intersections without corners. So you maneuver them as you would an intersection:
- Turning Left - enter the roundabout from the far left lane with your turn signal on, stay in the outside left lane of the roundabout, and take the first road to your left.
- Going Straight - if you want to take the road that exits the roundabout straight in front of you, you enter from the right lane, stay in the inside lane of the roundabout, drive around the center and take the 2nd road.
- Turning Right - likewise, if you want to take the road that goes to the right, enter the roundabout from the right lane, stay in the inside lane of the roundabout, drive around the center, and take the 3rd road.
So learning to drive roundabouts was easy.
Collaborating with Emily was not.
Emily is the lovely woman on my GPS system. It took that first day for us to get our groove on. And as such, needless to say, I ended up driving in circles and far off the path of where I was heading ...
County Kildare, Ireland ...
I had originally wanted to visit County Kildare and the town of Kildare. Something was calling me there and telling me I needed to go. But I left Dublin later than planned that day, as I simply had to tour Trinity College, and I really wanted to get through Waterford so I could have an early start west the next morning. So, mistakenly, I decided to skip Kildare and go straight to Kilkenny then on to Waterford.
Because I wasn't understanding Emily very well, I ended up missing exits or exiting too soon. Given my adventurous nature, instead of back-tracking I allowed Emily to simply calculate a new route. After making several blunders ...
... the road turned and I found myself in awe of the glorious rolling fields in front of me. The grass looked manicured but was long enough for me to see it blowing in the breeze. The fields were wide open and the grass was the greenest I'd ever seen (until I saw Kerry the next day, that is). There was a large sign, Punchestown Racecourse, and in the distance behind it I could see the lovely racecourse. I was in horse country!! I was reminded of Lexington, Kentucky, horse capital of the United States and near my hometown of Cincinnati (and Keeneland Racecourse). While Lexington has an elegant, prestigious, white-fenced charm, Punchestown was more classic elegance with country charm.
I was in the heart of Ireland's thoroughbred country. Every April, the Punchestown Racecourse hosts the big race of Naas, the county seat of County Kildare. Ireland is known for being where the world's best thoroughbreds are reared and trained.
There are meets throughout the year across the countryside. The Curragh, is the famous Irish racecourse near Newbridge, County Kildare, and host of Ireland's classic events including the Derby, the Oaks, and the St. Leger. Try to build your trip around one of the equestrian events: Buttevant (July), Connemara Pony Show (August), Dublin Horse Show (August), and Ballinasloe (October). I would love to go back for a race at Punchestown, the Dublin show, and ... the Laytown Races (July or August). The Laytown Races on are a beach in County Meath. Since 1876, the race begins after the tide has gone out and is between the horses, as well as between the horses and the incoming tide.
Mistakenly, again, I chose not to stay in the area but to press on towards Waterford with a stop in Kilkenny.
County Kilkenny, Ireland ...
One of the benefits of driving a car again, since it's something I no longer do on a daily basis given I live in Manhattan, is enjoying the freedom that it has always brought to me. I love driving with the windows down, my hair blowing wildly, and the volume of the radio loud. (Ahh, I miss my convertible.) A fabulous song was playing on the radio, Hey Soul Sister, from Train's Save Me San Francisco album.
Kilkenny is known to be one of Ireland's most delightful medieval towns. It sits on both banks of the meandering River Nore and became a city in 1609. There are many historic buildings to visit: Kilkenny Castle, St. Canice's Cathedral and round tower, Rothe House, Shee Alms House, the Black Abbey, St. Mary's Cathedral, the town hall, St. Francis Abbey, Grace's Castle, and St. John's Priory. It has a rich culture of craft and exquisite design workshops, fabulous restaurants, the Watergate Theatre, public gardens and museums.
Sounds lovely, doesn't it?
Yes, well, I wouldn't know seeing how Emily and I were still not speaking the same language! I spent so much time trying to get to Kilkenny and kept ending up in obscure little intersections in the middle of nowhere. Finally, Emily directed me to a town that was not Kilkenny but was ... Thomastown (11 miles southeast of Kilkenny). Thank ... you ... Emily. I made a quick stop in the centre of this quaint town to stretch my legs, then hopped in the car to make way to Waterford. And guess what was on the radio? Yes, that fantastic song, Hey Soul Sister!
Just about 8 miles before reaching Waterford, I came across a quaint pub and guesthouse on in the town of Mullinavat. A restored ale house built in 1644 during the Cromwellian era, The Rising Sun Guesthouse & Lounge was quintessential Ireland. It was rustic stone with bright red doors, window framing, shutters and roof. It reminded me of the taverns back in the day of Paul Revere. And as it was now approaching 4:30pm and I hadn't had lunch, I decided to stop for a bite at the pub.
As soon as I walked in, the few people there, locals, gave me an quizzical look then quickly turned their attention back to the television or to the window where they could watch two ladies across the street planting flowers in the pots that decorated the street. I teased the bartender and told him that I'd never heard a pub so quiet before. The locals looked at me but I didn't even get a chuckle out of them! This was the only time during my visit in Ireland that I didn't feel like I was wrapped in a warm, cozy blanket.
I took a seat at the bar and, to my amazement, chicken curry was on the menu! Is this an Irish thing?? My neighborhood Irish pub, The Hairy Monk, in Manhattan serves the most delicious chicken curry. I've always thought it was odd given curry is an Indian dish. They even offer it 'half & half' ~ instead of be served on rice, it comes on 1/2 rice and 1/2 french fried potatoes. And ... The Rising Sun offers it the same way! I ordered mine as 1/2 & 1/2 and enjoyed it with a pint of Guinness. (It wasn't as good as The Hairy Monk's, but it was nice to know that chicken curry is an Irish dish.)
I was so tired after my meal that I decided to spend the night here in their guesthouse. The room was clean and extremely large, as was the bathroom, albeit simple in taste. I took a walk around the little town and the fresh Irish air smelled delicious. Grass. Flowers. Trees. I love the way the Irish decorate their yards, their lands, with natural items. It's very common to see hedges that are made up of different types of bushes which give a pattern of different colors (see the house and yard below). And, yes, a few cows tossed in. A cup of tea in my room then I was fast asleep by 9:30 pm.
What should have taken about 2-2.5 hours to drive from Dublin to Waterford took me 4 hours.
It had been a long day.
County Waterford, Ireland ...
Early this next morning, I decided to try the traditional Irish breakfast before heading into Waterford. Hmm. I can't say that I enjoyed it. What everyone says is true...it could clog the healthiest of arteries.
And ... greeting me as I pulled out of the parking lot for the short drive into Waterford ... Hey Soul Sister. Again.
Today is another day flying by. I've walked around the town centre of Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland, in hopes of finding something worthwhile so I may tell you that it is worth a visit. It is so sad that this town has been waiting almost 2 years for the new Waterford Crystal facility to open after the original was closed when the company was acquired. Families who have worked at Waterford for generations found themselves without employment. I do hope the new owning company has provided for these families during these past two years. (The new facility was scheduled to open last month, June 2010. As of 6/1, it had not opened.)
I can envision this town bustling with visitors anxious to purchase the exquisite crystal. Shopkeepers proudly selling the crystal for which the town was known. But those are times past. Sadly, quaint shops are now home to cheap clothing stores. Storefronts have not been changed so they speak of crystal and Irish sweaters but contain cheap trinkets and clothing or pharmacies. Only Kelly's and Shaw's department stores remain and have a few original pieces of Waterford Crystal for sale. I feel the need to buy a piece of the original crystal just to support the town & my principles...but I have several items on my gift list yet to purchase.
Net net of the past 24 hours? I must return to Ireland to explore County Kildare, attend a few horse races, and explore the town of Kilkenny.
Next up: Counties Cork, Kerry, and Limerick ...
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