Exploring: County Dublin, Ireland

As I begin my posts of my journey around Ireland, I dedicate them to my father, Charles Donald Burke, who has spent years researching and documenting our Irish heritage.  I so wish you could have joined me, Dad.  Happy Father's Day!  Love, Me


My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Kilmainham Gaol
2. Trinity College
3. Museums - National Art Gallery, Writers Museum, National Museum (decorative arts & history)
4. Dublin Castle
5. Gaiety Theatre
6. St. Stephen's Green
7. Guinness Beer
8. Nightlife:  Grafton Street pubs and clubs including Dandelion Bar Club (won Best Nightclub 2010), Porterhouse, O'Donoghues Bar, and Shanagan's elegant pub for a nightcap.  For the younger & tourist crowd, definitely go to the Temple Bar area.
9. The Fitzwilliam Hotel 
10. Hop On - Hop Off Bus Tour

What You Can Skip ...

1. Grafton Street Shopping
2. Guinness Storehouse

My First Trip to Dublin ...  

(Preface:  forthcoming posts on the other regions of Ireland should not be as long as this one as I only spent a day or two in each of them.)


Arriving at Aer Lingus in the JFK International airport in New York, it was almost surreal for me.  I have always wanted to explore Ireland's green fields.  After rescheduling this trip 2 times this year already, and after hearing my Dad rattle off our Irish genealogy for many years now, it was a bit difficult to grasp that I was actually on my way.

At the Irish pub in the JFK airport, Tigin, I watched the many tourists on their way to Ireland who, in their excitement, had chosen to wear green.  And proudly, I might add.  Some even had matching shirts with "Ireland, Summer 2010."  I shake my head.  Tourists.  (I refer to tourists in the third person as I am a traveler, not a tourist, you see.)  I met several wonderful people on my journey to Ireland ... Regina, who visited NYC 21 years ago and stayed; a lovely older couple who were such fun & so much in love; the young man who sat next to me that was on his way to Bologna, Italy to be married; a few of the Aer Lingus flight attendants. 

Aer Lingus was fantastic...very friendly, easy travel.  The only inconveniences are seating is a bit short on the leg room, and drinks are not served with dinner (although they do advise you of this when beverages are served before dinner).

When I arrived at The Fitzwilliam Hotel on St. Stephen's Green early Saturday morning, knowing I would be early for check-in, I had scheduled a massage at their in-house Spirit Spa.  I was a bit early for the massage, so the hotel staff kindly escorted me to their lobby where a fire was burning in the fireplace and the sofas were inviting.  It was a chilly and rainy morning, so a comfortable sofa near a fire, and in a trendy setting, was perfect.  I felt a bit spoiled when a tray of tea and biscuits were brought to me.  Ahh...perfect after my journey as I did not sleep well on the flight.  The Fitzwilliam Hotel is in the perfect location...at the intersection which has the main entrance to St. Stephen's Green, the St. Stephen's Green shopping mall, Grafton Street shopping, Gaiety Theatre, and many pubs and nightclubs.

Ursula Daly, I.T.E.C and I.M.T.A., is a lovely massage therapist and aesthetistician.  Being very spiritual and holistic, she provided me with guidance on my overall wellness in addition to the incredible massage.  We had such a kindred spirit connection, that she gave me the cd she had playing because I so enjoyed the music.  (Evidently, she never gives her cds away.)  The music is very relaxing:  Bliss, A Hundred Thousand Angels.  "Be wise:  Always try to live in perfect harmony with your own nature."

After my massage, I was still early for check-in so I had some lunch in the hotel restaurant.  During lunch, the helpful woman from the front desk brought my room key to me as it was now ready, and advised that my luggage had just been taken up.  My room was amazing!  Very trendy boutique in style, very roomy, and the smallest of detail was given attention.  I felt spoiled every moment I spent in my room.  I was also very impressed with service and attention I received throughout my entire stay.  The staff even knew me by name. 

A quick shower then I was out exploring the streets of Dublin!

I strolled through St. Stephen's Green just across the street from my hotel.  At 22 acres, it's the largest of the parks in Dublin's main Georgian squares.  Phoenix Park is the largest park in Dublin city, but is not in a Georgian square.  The park is so sweet and lovely, and a great place for early morning runs.  I highly spending a couple hours relaxing in this lovely park.

As I wandered around Grafton Street, the highly recommended shopping area, I was greatly disappointed.  The only worthwhile shops on this street are Karen Millen who has the most beautiful collection of dresses (but I can find this shop in SoHo, NYC), and Brown Thomas whose shoe department is better than most Manhattan department stores.  The rest is your basic US mall, and not even many of those shops given the amount of pharmacies.  I was so disappointed that I sent Stacey a text, a girlfriend in London, for guidance.  Evidently, this is it on the shopping with an Irish exception just around the corner from Grafton Street, Avoca, a store of wovens, housewares, and accessories.  A lovely shop and cafe.  It's a good thing that I really don't like shopping!

I made my way to the Temple Bar area which is very quaint and fun.  Located on the south bank of the River Liffey, unlike the surround areas it has preserved its medieval street pattern, with many narrow cobbled streets.  It is extremely touristy, very young, and has very expensive drinks.  Making my way down to the river I crossed the famous Ha' Penny Bridge, built in 1816, into North City Center.  Not much was happening there so I returned to Temple Bar and found a bar with some great music.  After seeing a few groups of American men perk up when I entered, I grabbed a beer and made my way to where the locals were.  And there, I became mesmerized...obsessed...a big fan of the game of Hurling!  Wow!  The game is very strategic and, well, those Irishmen are MEN!

 
The Gaiety Theatre is around the corner from the hotel, so I stopped by and picked up a ticket for that evening's closing performance of Shawshank Redemption.  I really wanted to see something light-hearted, but more so I wanted to see a performance at this 'Grand Old Lady of South King Street' that opened in 1871 (featuring operatic and musical productions, with occasional dramatic shows).  Surprisingly, this performance was the strongest performance I've seen in a long time, even as compared to Broadway (with the exceptions of Wicked and August: Osage Count).  Kevin Anderson and John Jelks gave such strong performances you thought you were watching Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman! 

While I waited for the performance to begin, a lovely couple sat next to me.  Joan & Andrew.  We hung out together during the intermission over a pint, then after the performance we went to hit the pub across the street, Sinnot's Bar, and I was shocked to find it downstairs and the size of 4 American pubs!  Joan, Andrew & I spent the evening getting to know each other and...well...laughing our heads off!  They are such a fun couple!  We wrapped up the night with a nightcap at The Oval Office pub at Shanahan's Restaurant which is in a lovely Georgian townhouse.  The American owner, John Shanahan, created Hooked on Phonics.

The next day I utilized the Hop On-Hop Off double-decker tour bus system to get around the city quickly and see the key sights, hopping off at the ones I wanted to explore.  These seem a bit cheesy, but I've learned they're fantastic at ensuring you see everything you want in a shorter period of time.  I always recommend spending the first 2 days in a city on these buses (a great tip given to me by the late actor Roy Stuart when I was to visit Paris for the first time). While Dublin isn't a large city, so it's easy to walk around, there are several key sights that are outside of the city centre.  Any hotel can provide you with information on these buses and, of course, so can the Visitor's Center located in an old church.

My first exploration was Dublin Castle.  Founded in 1204 by King John of England, until 1922 it was the fortified seat of British rule in Ireland.  It is now a major Irish government complex.  The tour is worth the euros as you learn much about Dublin's history.  I visited Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick's Cathedral.  The Guinness Storehouse is, of course, very touristy.  I don't recommend this stop.  While I didn't take the tour, I did go to the top floor bar for the 360 view of Dublin and free pint of Guinness.  And by going to the top for my 'free' pint, it cost me the 15 euros as if I'd taken the tour. I'm not a big beer drinker & have never liked Guinness, but in Ireland it's smooth, creamy, and doesn't have a bite.  My regret here isn't skipping the tour.  My regret is not being able to shake the American motorcycle guy who saw me at Quays Bar the day before and took this opportunity to attach himself to me.

Kilmainham Gaol.  If you see nothing else, you must see this jail.  A former prison where many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned, tortured, and some executed from 1796 until 1924 by the British and by the Irish Free State.  This is where the Easter Rising leaders, Patrick Pearse, James Connolly and other founding fathers of Ireland were jailed and executed.  Ireland's fight for freedom is best told from insight this prison than anywhere else.  It's only three miles from City Centre, and now houses an educational center that covers both the heroic and tragic struggles from the 1780s to the 1920s.  There is a tour that includes the interior as well as the errie stone-breakers yard where some of the rebels were shot.
(Note:  The Saville Inquiry, established in 1998 to look at the 1972 Bloody Sunday events in Northern Ireland was just made public on June 15, 2010.  It contained findings of fault that could re-open the controversy, and potentially lead to criminal investigations for some soldiers involved in the killings.)


Trinity College, Ireland's oldest university, was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I and is also one of the oldest universities in Western Europe.  The grounds are so beautiful and its history is captivating.  The Library's famous Long Room is quite overwhelming.  The pedestals of marble busts.  The alcoves of books.  Smell of old leather and ancient word.  The soft sounds of thought and knowledge so abundant and overwhelming.  I paused to take it all in.  Smiling.  Only if these shelves were filled with shoes could it also please me this much.  As I turned to leave, I saw that I had been standing in front of the bust of Edmond Burke. 

Trinity College is also home to the Book of Kells.  The Book of Kells is an illustrated manuscript Gospel in Latin which contains the four Gospels of the New Testament along with various prefatory texts and tables. It was created by Celtic Monks circa 800 or a wee bit earlier.   Pay the 10 euros for a student guided 45 minute tour, which includes entry into the Long Hall and the Book of Kells exhibit ... you won't be disappointed.

The Museums in Dublin are very impressive.  Visit the National Art Gallery, Writers Museum, and National Museum (decorative arts & history).

One of the two best meals I had in Ireland was in Dublin at Peploe's Wine Bistro, on St. Stephen's Green.  It's just a few stairs down from the sidewalk into a lovely red brick Georgian building that is covered with ivy.  I began with Kir Royal as an apertif, then Irish beef carpaccio.  The carpaccio was a bit tough but very flavorful.  My entree was swordfish with caponata and potato.  On its own, the swordfish was a bit salty for my taste, but, with a proper bite with the caponata and greens positioned beneath it on the plate, it was sheer perfection!  I don't typically order desert, but, I was on vacation!  The rhubarb strawberry crumble was...shhh...better than my Grandma Burke's!  Now, how IS that possible?? And the cappuccino was the best I've had outside of Rome.  Service was classic and attentive without being annoying.  My compliments to Chef Sebastian Scheer!

For Nightlife, check out these fabulous places:  Dandelion Bar Club (Best Nightclub 2010), O'Donoghues Bar for Irish music, and Porterhouse.

It was time to leave Dublin.  I had already delayed my departure by a day & a half.  As I waited for a taxi, I tried not to think about the fact that I'll be driving on the left side of the road shortly.  I was quite nervous, but ...

"Do One Thing Every Day That Scares You!"
The explorations continue ... stay tuned for the next Irish county!