Exploring Ireland: County Kerry (part 2)

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

• Drive through the countryside & backroads
• Park the car on the side of the road and go sit in a field of the greenest grass you've ever seen!  
• Inch Beach
• Dingle

What You Can Skip ...

•  Not a thing!

continuing from Killarney to Dingle…

Driving from Killarney out to the Dingle Peninsula was one of my most spectacular drives in Ireland!  Fields of the greenest grass you've ever seen sway in the breeze on the side of the steep rolling hills.  The road twists and turns.  It was a lovely day with a perfectly blue sky and bright sunshine.  Every now and then a house appeared from nowhere always in a bright color of ... you name it.  Red.  Green.  Yellow.  The colors were so bright and vivid that they reminded me of Mexico.

I pulled to the side of the road to take these photos as the view was so breathtaking.  Many times, throughout my travels, I'm overwhelmed with a feeling or emotion that a specific view evokes.  At those times, I always take a photo of that exact view so that I can remember how I felt when I saw it.  And whenever I look at the photo, I'm transported back to that moment.  This was one such moment ...

The countryside was so quintessential Ireland. The side of the road dropped to a field where cattle were grazing.  I squatted down and leaned forward so I could capture a shot with the cattle in it when ... AGH! ... I suddenly screamed and fell backward!  I hadn't seen the cow that was just below me, nor had she seen me, until she raised her head and our faces were 8 inches apart!  We stared at each other for a second, I laughed and she stood as I stroked her face.

It is obvious why County Kerry is known as the most beautiful of all of the Irish counties.

You've probably heard of 'The Dingle Way.'  The Dingle Way refers to the Dingle Peninsula.  While in Dublin, several of the local Irishmen advised me, due to my short stay in Ireland, to skip the Ring of Kerry and instead 'go The Dingle Way.'  At the base of the Peninsula are the peaks of the Slieve Mish mountain range.  Baurtregaum is its highest summit reaching to 2800 feet (850 metres).  I longed to climb, but decided to save that for a return trip to Ireland.

Rounding a bend in the road, my jaw dropped open.  The view before me was ... indescribable.  I'd stumbled upon Inch Beach.

Inch is a fairly small community that sets around Inch Beach.  There's a wonderful view of the Atlantic Ocean and McGillycuddy Reeks (the highest mountain range in Ireland).  The beach is four miles long and stretches into Dingle Bay.  

Anyone who knows me is aware that I cannot pass a beach without, at least, getting my feet ankle deep into the water.  Beaches relax my body and re-balance my mind.  They are very spiritual for me.  I pulled into the large parking lot and turned off the engine of my car.  Being a chilly day with moments of sprinkling rain, I grabbed my rain/hiking jacket from the trunk and walked towards the beach.  

The beach was, for the most part, empty.  There were a few tourists sitting at the picnic tables just outside of the rough cafe / surf shop that sat on a small hill overlooking the water.  I could see a surf truck parked on the beach and one lone surfer in the water.  I hoped his wet suit was warm enough for the very cold water on this chilly day.  I, myself, prefer warm water diving.  The water was so cold that as soon as the wave pushed it over my feet ... that was enough for me!  

I spent about 45 minutes slowly strolling the beach, absorbing the mountains in the background, listening to the waves, and allowing my mind to do what it does best at the beach ... contemplate life.  Thinking back and thinking present and landing on the forward.  I thought back on the past five months of working entirely too many hours for anyone and promised I would not sacrifice that much of my life for business again.  Not the first time I've promised this to myself, but sometimes we have to relearn life lessons.  The future was bright.

Dingle, Ireland ...  
To the north and south of the Slieve Mish mountains are roads that provide fantastic marine and mountain views.  Especially as you go through Conor Pass on the way to the town of Dingle.  Dingle is a fishing village at the foot of Ballysitteragh beside what appears to be an enclosed harbor.  It had been the site of a Celtic fort.  During the Middle Ages, it was a western port trading with the Spanish. Throughout my journey, the locals had told me to see Fungi, the dolphin who lives in the Dingle harbor and has become a 'must see' on the tourist list, as he prefers humans to other dolphins.  He must have been napping during my visit.

Dingle seems to also be a fun destination town for the Irish for summer surfing and romantic getaways.  It truly is adorable.

Having skipped it, I can't speak to the famous Ring of Kerry but the Dingle Peninsula is so beautiful that I could not believe any other place could be more so.  I was glad I heeded the Irishmen's advice.

Next up:  From County Kerry to County Clare ...

The Joys of Fall

As Fall officially begins this week, I'm delaying the next Irish excursion to share some options for your Fall fun planning.

My Recommendations:

• Ohio - Hocking Hills State Park, Lebanon's Applefest (9/25, 10am-7pm) and the Golden Lamb Inn
• Vail, Colorado -Vail Marriott Mountain Resort & Spa, Sweet Basil restaurant, Les Delices de France ('The French Deli' as the locals call it)
• Kentucky - the exquisite Keeneland Racetrack in the heart of Lexington horse country (10/8 - 10/30/10), Red River Gorge State Park, Natural Bridge, bourbon tastings, Fort Boonesborough
• Vermont - The Equinox Golf Resort & Spa, Orvis Fly Fishing School, Orvis School of Shooting, The British School of Falconry, leaf peeping
• Washington - Whidbey Island (The Saratoga Inn, Deception Pass State Park), Seattle (Kimpton's Hotel Vintage Park)
• New York State - Hunter Mountain, Finger Lakes

What You Can Skip ...

• Not a thing.
• Especially don't write off anything because it's rustic or primitive.  Whether it's a B&B, restaurant, shop, or apple orchard.  Explore it.  In the Fall, I have found the more primitive, the more adventure!

Fall is my favorite time of the year!

I love the colors of the foliage, the cool nip in the air, crisp apples and fresh apple cidar, pumpkin patches, champagne and Keeneland Racetrack, Indian corn and squash to bring Fall into my home, spending Halloween 'Trick or Treating' with my niece and nephew, and small town Fall festivals.

One of my favorite things to do in the Fall is to explore.  What I call 'getting lost' ~ simply getting in the car and driving, following the path of 'let's take that road' and 'turn down this road' to see what we find and where we end up.  Tripping over quaint towns, strolling their shops of crafts, sipping hot apple cidar, small town restaurants with homemade pie.  I love pie.  The fun is never knowing what you'll find.  Sometimes I come home that night.  Other times I find a B&B.

Another favorite of mine is hiking.  Fall hiking is the best.  Not too hot, not too cold.

I was fortunate to grow up with my own private hiking grounds.  Approximately 150 miles east of Cincinnati, Ohio is a place where, as a friend of mine says, "my heart is."  My heart actually lies in three places (to-date) ... Meigs County, Ohio; Olmo, Italy; and, Sorrento, Italy.  The latter two places lead to explorations to be shared at another time.  But, ahh, Meigs County, Ohio.  My Father and his 9 siblings (yes, 9) grew up in Meigs County and while only three live in the area still, most own property in these wooded foothills of the Appalachian Mountains.  When I was a young girl, we built a cabin on our acreage.  My summers and many weekends were spent hiking the hills with my brothers and my cousins.  We chased deer on motorcycles (I holding onto Brien, my older brother, who did the driving), took late night wagon rides arguing over who would drive the tractor pulling it, named the paths we created and the creek pools and rock cliffs that God created.  Years later, I would enjoy the same with my step-children, Matt & Meagan, teaching them how to identify the tracks of animals.

Having moved five years ago to New York, I can no longer decide, on a Friday evening's drive home after a long work week, to quickly pack a bag and be on the road to my little slice of heaven.  I miss being able to stop the world and hop off for a few days on the spur of the moment.   It's a bit trickier to get out of Manhattan at the last minute.

A nice thing about New York is that a short drive out of the city and you're in beautiful countryside with lovely mountains.  The Hudson River School existed for a valid reason.  As does ZipCar.  I'll never forget my awe the first time I drove out of the city and through the Hudson River Valley.  Memories of the many paintings my Father had from the HRS flooded my mind.  I had loved the paintings, and I fell in love with the Valley.  The trick to getting out of Manhattan and into surrounding areas for hiking is transportation, given I sold my car when I moved here.  The one time I made a Friday spur of the moment decision to head out found me extremely fortunate.  After an hour search on the internet I was able to get the one rental car that was unreserved within a 30 mile radius of Manhattan.  So spur of the moment here can be ... tricky tricky.

Love, Marriage, and Hiking in Vail, Colorado 
The second weekend in August I had the honor of attending a friend's wedding in Vail.  This was my first trip to Vail and I will always remember stepping out of the plane and smelling the clean, sweet air!  On the drive to the town of Vail, I absorbed the spirit of the mountains and finally understood why my brother and sister-in-law plan to retire here.

Vail can be a forgotten adventure in the summer and fall.  While I have yet to visit during the winter ski season, I can only imagine the crowds and assume I prefer it in the off-season.

A word to the wise:  In booking this trip, I was able to find good deals on flights, hotel, and rental car.  For the first time, I booked flights through Marriott's online travel ... which I didn't know existed ... and was able to save another $50 off the already low fares offered by travelocity, expedia, and airline sites.  The only issue was the ticket was issued by either United or US Air (I can't remember which), but the fight was actually on the other airline.  My online check-in took about an hour as none of the airline sites had my reservation.  While in the security line, the woman in front of me shared that she booked the same way and went to the wrong airline the day before, causing her to miss the flight.  I was thankful that I completed my online check-in versus giving up and simply checking in at the airport kiosk.

Family and friends were staying at the Vail Marriott Mountain Resort & Spa where the wedding was to take place.  We arrived a few days early so we could enjoy the mountains and some hiking.  After checking into the hotel, I immediately went to the spa for a massage (now becoming a ritual on my personal travel).  I have had only one good massage at a hotel spa before (Fitzwilliam Hotel, Dublin), but this upped the count to two.  This massage snob found the massage to be fabulous!

Hiking up the mountains was a bit of a challenge given the high altitude ... it was a bit painful to breathe.  I left my friends and went back down the mountain to ride the gondola up.  I was very disappointed with myself.  But, once on the mountaintop, my disappointment faded with the awe of the sights.  Joining my friends for the hike down was fantastic and very therapeutic.

Watching my friend dance with his bride that evening so very happy, brought to mind something that I'd heard often in church:  That quite often, we meet someone when we have so much happening in our life...changes, pain, problems, whatever...and we determine it's not the best time to bring someone new into our life.  We can't make room for them or we think we must have our life sorted out before getting involved.  When, in fact, God is bringing someone into our life at that moment because He knows it is what we both need.

It was a reminder to me that life is short and when we care for someone, we should put aside circumstances ... and pride ... and simply go for it.

Life.  Mountains.  Hiking.  The freshness of Fall.  Love.  This weekend.

This is what life is about.

Exploring: Counties Cork and Kerry, Ireland (part 1)

I'm sorry for the lack of posts, especially in the middle of a trip.  It has been a busy summer!  Also, please overlook formatting as I'm having issues with my account.  

Thanks, & Safe Travels!
Karen

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Killarney - town, The Fairview Guesthouse, Gaby's Seafood Restaurant, Sheehan's Pub
2. Killarney National Park
   
3. Buy Irish lace

What You Can Skip ...

1.  Not a thing!
   

continuing from Waterford …

I completed my morning jaunt around Waterford with a delicious cappuccino while sitting outside at the corner cafe.  Then, back on the road again ...

County Cork, Ireland ...  

Driving the coastal road from Waterford to County Cork, and just before arriving at the charming town of Dungarvan, I found myself on a road so narrow that only one car could pass through … again.  It was lovely.  However, for this first-time left-side driver, it was a bit nerve racking as I never knew if I would come across an on-coming car when I came out of the many twists and turns.  Along each side of the road were thick hedges that were so perfectly manicured they transformed the dense greenery into flat walls.  The walls must have been 7 - 8' high and they caused me to feel as though I was driving through a maze.  As my side mirrors slid their way down the hedges on both sides of the car, I knew I would receive an unhappy gaze when I returned it.  And just as I rounded out of a curve, I saw a lovely golf resort, Gold Coast Golf Club.  Against the blue sky, the lime green of the grounds brought with it an exhale and a smile from me.


I drove on to Dungarvan, a very charming town that is separated from the ocean by a shallow bay.  Quite an interesting site to see, a navigation channel marked by red/green buoys leads into Dungarvan from the ocean. For most vessels, except the very small, the channel is not navigable at low tide. And even at high tide yachts and larger vessels must remain in the buoyed channel.  I stopped for ice cream and sat on the edge of the bay watching the boats master their way through the course, and absorbed the Irish everyday life as it buzzed around me.


Not long after, as I drove into the city of Cork, Ireland, I seriously think I had already heard Train's 'Hey Soul Sister' about twenty times.  It was really starting to get on my nerves.  Thank God for my iPod.


I've heard only extremes about the city of Cork ... ‘just another city’ and ‘utterly wonderful.’  Nothing in between.  So curiosity had the best of me.  Being the second largest & the third most populous city in Ireland, Cork is a major Irish seaport.  Its harbour is one of the world's largest natural harbours.  Interestingly, Cork is built on the River Lee which separates into two channels on one end of the city.  The city centre, my first destination whenever I approach a new city, is located on the island created by those channels.  A very interesting sight.  The main road had extremely wide sidewalks ... almost a plaza of sorts ... with interesting posts for electrical wires and street lights.  They were more like spikes than posts, actually.  Off of this 'plaza' were small alleyways lined with quaint bars and cafes.  It reminded me of Italy.  Despite that, the city itself didn't capture me.  What did capture me, though, is the distinct impression I had that were I to live in Cork I would have an incredible community of friends.  In that regard, it reminded me of my hometown, Cincinnati.  And as such, I deemed it a city of friendly people.

County Kerry, Ireland ...  

The drive from Cork to the town of Killarney in County Kerry was the first of my two favorite drives of the trip (the other being in Connemara).  Part of me doesn’t want to admit this is the most beautiful region in Ireland simply because it is the top tourist destination given the scenery.  I don’t believe I’ve ever agreed with the tourist pov before, but, incredible beauty is incredible beauty!


If you take the main road between the towns you will drive through the outer parts of Killarney National Forest (also known as Killarney National Park).  The density of the forest has caused the tree branches to hang over the road forming a lush tunnel as a welcome entry into the region.  I was in complete awe as I drove and desperate to capture my feeling on film so I could relive these moments over and over again.  There wasn’t space to pull off to the side of the road, so I took to snapping photos through the windshield as I drove.  Only one photo is worth sharing and it's the photo I took as I came out of the tunnel ~ so it misses the wonder.  But, it does bring the previous visuals to my mind.

Coming out of the tunnel I was immediately in the Derrynasaggart Mountain region.  These mountains are breath-taking and my camera simply couldn’t do them justice!  (Of course, it had nothing to do with my photographic skills.)  Further into the forest heading onto the Iveragh Penisula, County Kerry has the highest mountain in all of Ireland, Carrauntoohill.

I pulled into the quaint town of Killarney and drove through the city centre.  The streets were lined with shops, pubs, and B&B’s each painted a different color.  I found the public parking, left my car and walked back to the centre to check out a few shops and get a recommendation on a good B&B.


There was a large lace shop with beautiful Irish lace serving every functionality you can imagine.  As I had planned to buy Irish lace for my mother and nieces, this was the perfect stop.  I bought my mother a runner, and also inquired of a B&B.  The shopkeeper recommended The Fairview Guesthouse.  While telling me how to drive there, she became very flustered and nervous that I would get lost so she drew a map for me.  It looked easy as I had just driven the area where she was directing me.  Still, she was so concerned that I would get lost that she insisted on looking up the phone number for me.


When I pulled up to The Fairview Guesthouse, on, literally, the street behind the lace shop & just a few buildings down, I knew this was a gem because it was absolutely lovely.  James O'Neill, the owner, offered me an upgrade for only an additional 10 euros so my room had a skylight, plasma screen tv, and...a jacuzzi.  I made a cup of tea, my afternoon ritual, and enjoyed it in the jacuzzi.  After a long, relaxing soak, I dressed for dinner and asked James for a few recommendations on restaurants and where I could go to hear Irish music.  As I walked out of the inn, a very tall, handsome, and unusually polished backpacker was entering.  We greeted each other and continued on our way.


I was so relaxed that I strolled the streets slowly, enjoying the sunlight that shines during the evenings in Ireland and tried to determine what I wanted for dinner.  Amongst couples, I passed an attractive guy also strolling alone and my senses quickly told me that he was the local 'hottie' out to pick up a tourist.  Needless to say, I gave him none of my attention.  As I neared the end of the strip, I decided on the award-winning Gaby's Seafood Restaurant.  


Taking a seat at the small, rustic bar, I immediately fell into conversation with the bartender.   I ordered a glass of wine from their fabulous wine list when I quickly realized that I was in perfect position to be hounded by large groups of American men who were clearly golf buddies making their way across the Irish circuit of courses.  I'd managed to avoid these packs since my arrival in Ireland.  Not that I'm not a fan of golfers, mind you, nor do I want to stereotype ... however ... every one of these groups that I'd come across appeared to be 'adult men gone wild' as they were always drunk, or well on their way, and looking for women to drink with.


Not long after, two gentlemen came in and sat next to me.  They were Americans sporting their golf polo shirts.  So, at first, I was a bit put off they sat next to me.  But they were delightful.  (Sadly, my file on my blackberry where I documented names of those I met, small discoveries and my thoughts when I came across them, vanished when I sync'ed my blackberry upon my return to New York.)  The older gentleman, let's call him Rick, lives in Sarasota, Florida and evidently is a fabulous golfer.  The younger, we'll name him George because I do believe that was his name, splits his time between being a golf pro in Sarasota and an Opera singer in Manhattan.  Both men were quite handsome and vying for my attention.  If I sparked to something George said and we conversed on the subject, Rick would clearly get miffed and change the subject causing George and I to smile and exchange knowing looks.  If Rick and I sparked on a conversation, George, however, would simply listen and smile.  Oh how sensitive is the male ego!  :)  These two seemed to be really good men and I was disappointed when, an hour later, their dining table was ready for them to be seated.  Once again, life brought two amazing people to me during my journey and I was thankful.


As I finished my dinner there at the bar, I decided it was time to hear some traditional Irish music.  It was 10:30 p.m. and the sun was shining as bright as if it was only 4 p.m.  As I strolled back towards Sheehan's Pub, I saw a group of men gathered in front of the door and I could hear the very non-Irish music.  It was dark when I entered and full of men.  My first thought was, "Oh, please God, don't let these guys be drunk as I really don't want to spend the evening in my hotel room!"  The bar was full, although not yet packed, and as I made my way down the long, narrow bar I finally found an open spot where I could easily get a drink and plant myself.  The band had finished playing just as I'd entered but another band would begin their sets soon.  "Excuse me," I said to the back of the extremely tall gentleman standing next to my spot as I shimmied my way into it and ordered a Guinness.  He turned around and smiled. It was my handsome backpacker.  Sadly, it was so loud that I couldn't hear his name and I didn't want to ask him to repeat it a fourth time.  For ease of sharing, we'll call him Bern as he is from Bern, Switzerland.  


Bern & I hung out together most of the night and he became my protector, of sorts, as I ended up being one of only ten women in the bar that night.  All of the packs of golfing buddies I'd seen earlier, as well as the local 'hottie', ended up in this pub and were looming at this blonde woman traveling on her own.  So I was thankful Bern was there to ward them off.  Not that I couldn't have handled them, it was just nice not to be bothered.  We spent the evening chatting & people-watching as we patiently waited for the next band to take the stage.


Not long after the band began to play, two men entered the bar through the door which led to the restrooms and what I assumed was a back entrance. (Much later I learned there was a rocking nightclub back there.  I could have been on top of a box and dancing to the latest techno music at The Grand!)  The guy who was near my age was chatting with a gal from a hen party (aka bachelorette party).  As they passed behind me, I felt the guy's hand on the mid of my back and his deep, sexy, Irish voice whispered something in my ear like "I hope you're having a good time" or something like that.  I rolled my eyes and thought, "what a player", as I turned my attention back to Bern and the band.  Not too long after, Mr. Player and his friend came over and we all began chatting.  As it turns out, Leon (aka Mr. Player) and Ted were really nice men.  Ted, who tried to pass himself off as Leon's father, is a neighbor of Leon's.  They teased me a bit about Bern, as he stayed close and kept the drunk men away, which I thought was sweet, but judging by his looks he was clearly too young for me.  Needless to say, I teased Leon about hitting on me at the same time he was hitting on the other gal.  He vehemently denied hitting on the other gal and said he was just chatting.  Right.  


Both men are farmers and were on their way to the Dingle Peninsula to look at cattle.  I was actually on my way to explore the Dingle Peninsula the next day myself.  And, small world, we were all staying at the same inn.  My father's family is from the country and I have a few uncles and cousins who are cattle farmers.  But these two gentlemen were unique.  Ted encouraged me to visit an Irish pub in New York City that isn't too far from where I live:  Pig & Whistle.  (I still have yet to make my way there.)

After a couple of hours of hanging out, dancing, and chatting with everyone around us, Leon and I sat in the corner and talked for another couple of hours. Until this evening, I had never met a cattle farmer who carries an iPhone, enjoys international travel, knows who Andrea Bocelli is, can actually sing Andrea Bocelli's songs (quite perfectly, I might add), and ... salsa dances.  A man after my own heart!


The band, Bog the Donkey, was actually quite good.  Although I have yet to figure out what 'Bog the Donkey' means, they were an absolute blast!  Now, had I not been enchanted by the conversations I was having, you would not have been able to pry me off of the dance floor.  Here's a video of them singing The Galway Girl.  A favorite of mine given Galway Ireland is one of the areas in Ireland from whence the Burke family hails.


The next morning, I met Leon and Ted in the dining room for breakfast before we all went our own merry ways.  They to look at cattle, and I to explore the region.  It wasn't until they had been gone for about 5 minute when I realized I didn't have their contact information.  I raced outside but, alas, they were nowhere in sight.  

I pulled my car up to the entrance of the Guesthouse and as I was placing my suitcase in the trunk, who came walking up from the inn next door but Bern!  He was on his way into the Guesthouse for breakfast as it is the sister inn of where he stayed.  I noticed the salt and pepper coloring of his sideburns and realized that he was much older than I had thought.  He had appeared to be in his mid-twenties and now, in the light, I realized he was definitely in his thirties.  We chatted for a few minutes and he caught me by surprise when he planted a firm kiss on my lips.  


He went inside and I climbed into my car ... quite stunned.  


Smiling, of course.

Next up:  Counties Kerry (cont'd) and Limerick ...

Coming Very Soon ...

• Exploring Ireland:  Counties Cork, Kerry, and Limerick
• Exploring Ireland:  Counties Clare and Galway
• Exploring Ireland:  Counties Connemara and Mayo
• Love, Marriage, & Hiking in Vail, Colorado
• Hidden NYC:  Delectable Discoveries

Exploring: Counties Kildare, Kilkenny, and Waterford, Ireland

Ahh, back to roaming around Ireland.

Don't make the mistake of thinking you can explore even half of Ireland in 10 days.  There is so much to experience that if you drive even 15 miles without stopping, you've definitely missed something spectacular!

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Drive! - don't hire a driver; do rent a GPS; learn to drive the roundabouts (instructions below)
2. Explore Dublin's hinterlands:
• Begin visiting castles along your travels - start with Malahide Castle
• Newgrange  - one of Ireland's most important archaeological discoveries.  A passage 'burial' tomb mound built between circa 3100 & 2900 BC that is an interlocking system of large stones (no mortar nor cement was used).
• Powerscourt Estate -  a large 47 acre country estate with beautiful landscaped gardens which was originally a 13th century castle (located near Enniskerry, County Wicklow).  It's position was of strategic military importance as the owner could control access to the Dargle, Glencree and Glencullen rivers.
• The town of Wicklow was one of the bases used by the Vikings on the east coast.
3. Kildare horse country - see Punchestown racecourse, attend a race

What You Can Skip ...

1. Waterford - until the new factory opens it's really a 'has been' town.  It's scheduled to open this month, but even then I suggest waiting to see if the quality of crystal lives up to its heritage.  Now, that said, being located on the water is lovely.

I smile on the memories ...

How to maneuver driving roundabouts ...
Mark, the extremely handsome cab driver who took me to pick up my rental car, taught me the most important lesson of my trip ... how to drive roundabouts!  I was nervous about driving on the left side of the road, which turned out to be a piece of cake, but he cautioned me about roundabouts.  I shared my strategy:  stay in the outside left lane and if I miss my 'exit', then I'll simply keep driving around until I can make it.

"And that," said Mark, "is why you Americans cause so many accidents!" 

As he explained the proper way to drive them, I didn't get it.  So he kindly said we'd drive through a few together.  Ahhh, I got it!  I was viewing roundabouts as roads with exits, when in fact they're simply intersections without corners.  So you maneuver them as you would an intersection:

• Turning Left - enter the roundabout from the far left lane with your turn signal on, stay in the outside left lane of the roundabout, and take the first road to your left.
• Going Straight - if you want to take the road that exits the roundabout straight in front of you, you enter from the right lane, stay in the inside lane of the roundabout, drive around the center and take the 2nd road. 
• Turning Right - likewise, if you want to take the road that goes to the right, enter the roundabout from the right lane, stay in the inside lane of the roundabout, drive around the center, and take the 3rd road.

Easy!!

So learning to drive roundabouts was easy.
Collaborating with Emily was not.

Emily is the lovely woman on my GPS system.  It took that first day for us to get our groove on.  And as such, needless to say, I ended up driving in circles and far off the path of where I was heading ...

County Kildare, Ireland ... 
I had originally wanted to visit County Kildare and the town of Kildare.  Something was calling me there and telling me I needed to go.  But I left Dublin later than planned that day, as I simply had to tour Trinity College, and I really wanted to get through Waterford so I could have an early start west the next morning.  So, mistakenly, I decided to skip Kildare and go straight to Kilkenny then on to Waterford.

Because I wasn't understanding Emily very well, I ended up missing exits or exiting too soon.  Given my adventurous nature, instead of back-tracking I allowed Emily to simply calculate a new route.  After making several blunders ...

... the road turned and I found myself in awe of the glorious rolling fields in front of me.  The grass looked manicured but was long enough for me to see it blowing in the breeze.  The fields were wide open and the grass was the greenest I'd ever seen (until I saw Kerry the next day, that is).   There was a large sign, Punchestown Racecourse, and in the distance behind it I could see the lovely racecourse.  I was in horse country!!  I was reminded of Lexington, Kentucky, horse capital of the United States and near my hometown of Cincinnati (and Keeneland Racecourse).  While Lexington has an elegant, prestigious, white-fenced charm, Punchestown was more classic elegance with country charm. 

I was in the heart of Ireland's thoroughbred country.  Every April, the Punchestown Racecourse hosts the big race of Naas, the county seat of County Kildare.  Ireland is known for being where the world's best thoroughbreds are reared and trained.

There are meets throughout the year across the countryside.  The Curragh, is the famous Irish racecourse near Newbridge, County Kildare, and host of Ireland's classic events including the Derby, the Oaks, and the St. Leger.  Try to build your trip around one of the equestrian events:  Buttevant (July), Connemara Pony Show (August), Dublin Horse Show (August), and Ballinasloe (October).  I would love to go back for a race at Punchestown, the Dublin show, and ... the Laytown Races (July or August).  The Laytown Races on are a beach in County Meath.  Since 1876, the race begins after the tide has gone out and is between the horses, as well as between the horses and the incoming tide.

Mistakenly, again, I chose not to stay in the area but to press on towards Waterford with a stop in Kilkenny.

County Kilkenny, Ireland ...  
One of the benefits of driving a car again, since it's something I no longer do on a daily basis given I live in Manhattan, is enjoying the freedom that it has always brought to me.  I love driving with the windows down, my hair blowing wildly, and the volume of the radio loud.  (Ahh, I miss my convertible.)  A fabulous song was playing on the radio, Hey Soul Sister, from Train's Save Me San Francisco album.

Kilkenny is known to be one of Ireland's most delightful medieval towns.  It sits on both banks of the meandering River Nore and became a city in 1609.   There are many historic buildings to visit:  Kilkenny Castle, St. Canice's Cathedral and round tower, Rothe House, Shee Alms House, the Black Abbey, St. Mary's Cathedral, the town hall, St. Francis Abbey, Grace's Castle, and St. John's Priory.  It has a rich culture of craft and exquisite design workshops, fabulous restaurants, the Watergate Theatre, public gardens and museums.

Sounds lovely, doesn't it?
Yes, well, I wouldn't know seeing how Emily and I were still not speaking the same language!  I spent so much time trying to get to Kilkenny and kept ending up in obscure little intersections in the middle of nowhere.  Finally, Emily directed me to a town that was not Kilkenny but was ... Thomastown (11 miles southeast of Kilkenny).  Thank ... you ... Emily.  I made a quick stop in the centre of this quaint town to stretch my legs, then hopped in the car to make way to Waterford.  And guess what was on the radio?  Yes, that fantastic song, Hey Soul Sister!

Just about 8 miles before reaching Waterford, I came across a quaint pub and guesthouse on in the town of Mullinavat.  A restored ale house built in 1644 during the Cromwellian era, The Rising Sun Guesthouse & Lounge was quintessential Ireland.  It was rustic stone with bright red doors, window framing, shutters and roof.  It reminded me of the taverns back in the day of Paul Revere.  And as it was now approaching 4:30pm and I hadn't had lunch, I decided to stop for a bite at the pub.

As soon as I walked in, the few people there, locals, gave me an quizzical look then quickly turned their attention back to the television or to the window where they could watch two ladies across the street planting flowers in the pots that decorated the street.  I teased the bartender and told him that I'd never heard a pub so quiet before.  The locals looked at me but I didn't even get a chuckle out of them!  This was the only time during my visit in Ireland that I didn't feel like I was wrapped in a warm, cozy blanket.

I took a seat at the bar and, to my amazement, chicken curry was on the menu!  Is this an Irish thing??  My neighborhood Irish pub, The Hairy Monk, in Manhattan serves the most delicious chicken curry.  I've always thought it was odd given curry is an Indian dish.  They even offer it 'half & half' ~ instead of be served on rice, it comes on 1/2 rice and 1/2 french fried potatoes.  And ... The Rising Sun offers it the same way!  I ordered mine as 1/2 & 1/2 and enjoyed it with a pint of Guinness.  (It wasn't as good as The Hairy Monk's, but it was nice to know that chicken curry is an Irish dish.)

I was so tired after my meal that I decided to spend the night here in their guesthouse.  The room was clean and extremely large, as was the bathroom, albeit simple in taste.  I took a walk around the little town and the fresh Irish air smelled delicious.  Grass.  Flowers.  Trees.  I love the way the Irish decorate their yards, their lands, with natural items.  It's very common to see hedges that are made up of different types of bushes which give a pattern of different colors (see the house and yard below).  And, yes, a few cows tossed in.  A cup of tea in my room then I was fast asleep by 9:30 pm.

What should have taken about 2-2.5 hours to drive from Dublin to Waterford took me 4 hours.

It had been a long day.

County Waterford, Ireland ...  
Early this next morning, I decided to try the traditional Irish breakfast before heading into Waterford.  Hmm.  I can't say that I enjoyed it.  What everyone says is true...it could clog the healthiest of arteries.

And ... greeting me as I pulled out of the parking lot for the short drive into Waterford ... Hey Soul Sister.  Again.

Today is another day flying by.  I've walked around the town centre of Waterford, the oldest city in Ireland, in hopes of finding something worthwhile so I may tell you that it is worth a visit.  It is so sad that this town has been waiting almost 2 years for the new Waterford Crystal facility to open after the original was closed when the company was acquired.  Families who have worked at Waterford for generations found themselves without employment.  I do hope the new owning company has provided for these families during these past two years.  (The new facility was scheduled to open last month, June 2010.  As of 6/1, it had not opened.)

I can envision this town bustling with visitors anxious to purchase the exquisite crystal.  Shopkeepers proudly selling the crystal for which the town was known.  But those are times past.  Sadly, quaint shops are now home to cheap clothing stores.  Storefronts have not been changed so they speak of crystal and Irish sweaters but contain cheap trinkets and clothing or pharmacies.  Only Kelly's and Shaw's department stores remain and have a few original pieces of Waterford Crystal for sale.  I feel the need to buy a piece of the original crystal just to support the town & my principles...but I have several items on my gift list yet to purchase.

Net net of the past 24 hours?  I must return to Ireland to explore County Kildare, attend a few horse races, and explore the town of Kilkenny.


Next up:  Counties Cork, Kerry, and Limerick ...

A 2-Week Break for the Burke Family Reunion, Parents' 50th Anniversary, and July 4th Celebrations ~ Happy Independence Day!

Exploring: County Dublin, Ireland

As I begin my posts of my journey around Ireland, I dedicate them to my father, Charles Donald Burke, who has spent years researching and documenting our Irish heritage.  I so wish you could have joined me, Dad.  Happy Father's Day!  Love, Me


My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Kilmainham Gaol
2. Trinity College
3. Museums - National Art Gallery, Writers Museum, National Museum (decorative arts & history)
4. Dublin Castle
5. Gaiety Theatre
6. St. Stephen's Green
7. Guinness Beer
8. Nightlife:  Grafton Street pubs and clubs including Dandelion Bar Club (won Best Nightclub 2010), Porterhouse, O'Donoghues Bar, and Shanagan's elegant pub for a nightcap.  For the younger & tourist crowd, definitely go to the Temple Bar area.
9. The Fitzwilliam Hotel 
10. Hop On - Hop Off Bus Tour

What You Can Skip ...

1. Grafton Street Shopping
2. Guinness Storehouse

My First Trip to Dublin ...  

(Preface:  forthcoming posts on the other regions of Ireland should not be as long as this one as I only spent a day or two in each of them.)


Arriving at Aer Lingus in the JFK International airport in New York, it was almost surreal for me.  I have always wanted to explore Ireland's green fields.  After rescheduling this trip 2 times this year already, and after hearing my Dad rattle off our Irish genealogy for many years now, it was a bit difficult to grasp that I was actually on my way.

At the Irish pub in the JFK airport, Tigin, I watched the many tourists on their way to Ireland who, in their excitement, had chosen to wear green.  And proudly, I might add.  Some even had matching shirts with "Ireland, Summer 2010."  I shake my head.  Tourists.  (I refer to tourists in the third person as I am a traveler, not a tourist, you see.)  I met several wonderful people on my journey to Ireland ... Regina, who visited NYC 21 years ago and stayed; a lovely older couple who were such fun & so much in love; the young man who sat next to me that was on his way to Bologna, Italy to be married; a few of the Aer Lingus flight attendants. 

Aer Lingus was fantastic...very friendly, easy travel.  The only inconveniences are seating is a bit short on the leg room, and drinks are not served with dinner (although they do advise you of this when beverages are served before dinner).

When I arrived at The Fitzwilliam Hotel on St. Stephen's Green early Saturday morning, knowing I would be early for check-in, I had scheduled a massage at their in-house Spirit Spa.  I was a bit early for the massage, so the hotel staff kindly escorted me to their lobby where a fire was burning in the fireplace and the sofas were inviting.  It was a chilly and rainy morning, so a comfortable sofa near a fire, and in a trendy setting, was perfect.  I felt a bit spoiled when a tray of tea and biscuits were brought to me.  Ahh...perfect after my journey as I did not sleep well on the flight.  The Fitzwilliam Hotel is in the perfect location...at the intersection which has the main entrance to St. Stephen's Green, the St. Stephen's Green shopping mall, Grafton Street shopping, Gaiety Theatre, and many pubs and nightclubs.

Ursula Daly, I.T.E.C and I.M.T.A., is a lovely massage therapist and aesthetistician.  Being very spiritual and holistic, she provided me with guidance on my overall wellness in addition to the incredible massage.  We had such a kindred spirit connection, that she gave me the cd she had playing because I so enjoyed the music.  (Evidently, she never gives her cds away.)  The music is very relaxing:  Bliss, A Hundred Thousand Angels.  "Be wise:  Always try to live in perfect harmony with your own nature."

After my massage, I was still early for check-in so I had some lunch in the hotel restaurant.  During lunch, the helpful woman from the front desk brought my room key to me as it was now ready, and advised that my luggage had just been taken up.  My room was amazing!  Very trendy boutique in style, very roomy, and the smallest of detail was given attention.  I felt spoiled every moment I spent in my room.  I was also very impressed with service and attention I received throughout my entire stay.  The staff even knew me by name. 

A quick shower then I was out exploring the streets of Dublin!

I strolled through St. Stephen's Green just across the street from my hotel.  At 22 acres, it's the largest of the parks in Dublin's main Georgian squares.  Phoenix Park is the largest park in Dublin city, but is not in a Georgian square.  The park is so sweet and lovely, and a great place for early morning runs.  I highly spending a couple hours relaxing in this lovely park.

As I wandered around Grafton Street, the highly recommended shopping area, I was greatly disappointed.  The only worthwhile shops on this street are Karen Millen who has the most beautiful collection of dresses (but I can find this shop in SoHo, NYC), and Brown Thomas whose shoe department is better than most Manhattan department stores.  The rest is your basic US mall, and not even many of those shops given the amount of pharmacies.  I was so disappointed that I sent Stacey a text, a girlfriend in London, for guidance.  Evidently, this is it on the shopping with an Irish exception just around the corner from Grafton Street, Avoca, a store of wovens, housewares, and accessories.  A lovely shop and cafe.  It's a good thing that I really don't like shopping!

I made my way to the Temple Bar area which is very quaint and fun.  Located on the south bank of the River Liffey, unlike the surround areas it has preserved its medieval street pattern, with many narrow cobbled streets.  It is extremely touristy, very young, and has very expensive drinks.  Making my way down to the river I crossed the famous Ha' Penny Bridge, built in 1816, into North City Center.  Not much was happening there so I returned to Temple Bar and found a bar with some great music.  After seeing a few groups of American men perk up when I entered, I grabbed a beer and made my way to where the locals were.  And there, I became mesmerized...obsessed...a big fan of the game of Hurling!  Wow!  The game is very strategic and, well, those Irishmen are MEN!

 
The Gaiety Theatre is around the corner from the hotel, so I stopped by and picked up a ticket for that evening's closing performance of Shawshank Redemption.  I really wanted to see something light-hearted, but more so I wanted to see a performance at this 'Grand Old Lady of South King Street' that opened in 1871 (featuring operatic and musical productions, with occasional dramatic shows).  Surprisingly, this performance was the strongest performance I've seen in a long time, even as compared to Broadway (with the exceptions of Wicked and August: Osage Count).  Kevin Anderson and John Jelks gave such strong performances you thought you were watching Tim Robbins and Morgan Freeman! 

While I waited for the performance to begin, a lovely couple sat next to me.  Joan & Andrew.  We hung out together during the intermission over a pint, then after the performance we went to hit the pub across the street, Sinnot's Bar, and I was shocked to find it downstairs and the size of 4 American pubs!  Joan, Andrew & I spent the evening getting to know each other and...well...laughing our heads off!  They are such a fun couple!  We wrapped up the night with a nightcap at The Oval Office pub at Shanahan's Restaurant which is in a lovely Georgian townhouse.  The American owner, John Shanahan, created Hooked on Phonics.

The next day I utilized the Hop On-Hop Off double-decker tour bus system to get around the city quickly and see the key sights, hopping off at the ones I wanted to explore.  These seem a bit cheesy, but I've learned they're fantastic at ensuring you see everything you want in a shorter period of time.  I always recommend spending the first 2 days in a city on these buses (a great tip given to me by the late actor Roy Stuart when I was to visit Paris for the first time). While Dublin isn't a large city, so it's easy to walk around, there are several key sights that are outside of the city centre.  Any hotel can provide you with information on these buses and, of course, so can the Visitor's Center located in an old church.

My first exploration was Dublin Castle.  Founded in 1204 by King John of England, until 1922 it was the fortified seat of British rule in Ireland.  It is now a major Irish government complex.  The tour is worth the euros as you learn much about Dublin's history.  I visited Christ Church Cathedral and St. Patrick's Cathedral.  The Guinness Storehouse is, of course, very touristy.  I don't recommend this stop.  While I didn't take the tour, I did go to the top floor bar for the 360 view of Dublin and free pint of Guinness.  And by going to the top for my 'free' pint, it cost me the 15 euros as if I'd taken the tour. I'm not a big beer drinker & have never liked Guinness, but in Ireland it's smooth, creamy, and doesn't have a bite.  My regret here isn't skipping the tour.  My regret is not being able to shake the American motorcycle guy who saw me at Quays Bar the day before and took this opportunity to attach himself to me.

Kilmainham Gaol.  If you see nothing else, you must see this jail.  A former prison where many leaders of Irish rebellions were imprisoned, tortured, and some executed from 1796 until 1924 by the British and by the Irish Free State.  This is where the Easter Rising leaders, Patrick Pearse, James Connolly and other founding fathers of Ireland were jailed and executed.  Ireland's fight for freedom is best told from insight this prison than anywhere else.  It's only three miles from City Centre, and now houses an educational center that covers both the heroic and tragic struggles from the 1780s to the 1920s.  There is a tour that includes the interior as well as the errie stone-breakers yard where some of the rebels were shot.
(Note:  The Saville Inquiry, established in 1998 to look at the 1972 Bloody Sunday events in Northern Ireland was just made public on June 15, 2010.  It contained findings of fault that could re-open the controversy, and potentially lead to criminal investigations for some soldiers involved in the killings.)


Trinity College, Ireland's oldest university, was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I and is also one of the oldest universities in Western Europe.  The grounds are so beautiful and its history is captivating.  The Library's famous Long Room is quite overwhelming.  The pedestals of marble busts.  The alcoves of books.  Smell of old leather and ancient word.  The soft sounds of thought and knowledge so abundant and overwhelming.  I paused to take it all in.  Smiling.  Only if these shelves were filled with shoes could it also please me this much.  As I turned to leave, I saw that I had been standing in front of the bust of Edmond Burke. 

Trinity College is also home to the Book of Kells.  The Book of Kells is an illustrated manuscript Gospel in Latin which contains the four Gospels of the New Testament along with various prefatory texts and tables. It was created by Celtic Monks circa 800 or a wee bit earlier.   Pay the 10 euros for a student guided 45 minute tour, which includes entry into the Long Hall and the Book of Kells exhibit ... you won't be disappointed.

The Museums in Dublin are very impressive.  Visit the National Art Gallery, Writers Museum, and National Museum (decorative arts & history).

One of the two best meals I had in Ireland was in Dublin at Peploe's Wine Bistro, on St. Stephen's Green.  It's just a few stairs down from the sidewalk into a lovely red brick Georgian building that is covered with ivy.  I began with Kir Royal as an apertif, then Irish beef carpaccio.  The carpaccio was a bit tough but very flavorful.  My entree was swordfish with caponata and potato.  On its own, the swordfish was a bit salty for my taste, but, with a proper bite with the caponata and greens positioned beneath it on the plate, it was sheer perfection!  I don't typically order desert, but, I was on vacation!  The rhubarb strawberry crumble was...shhh...better than my Grandma Burke's!  Now, how IS that possible?? And the cappuccino was the best I've had outside of Rome.  Service was classic and attentive without being annoying.  My compliments to Chef Sebastian Scheer!

For Nightlife, check out these fabulous places:  Dandelion Bar Club (Best Nightclub 2010), O'Donoghues Bar for Irish music, and Porterhouse.

It was time to leave Dublin.  I had already delayed my departure by a day & a half.  As I waited for a taxi, I tried not to think about the fact that I'll be driving on the left side of the road shortly.  I was quite nervous, but ...

"Do One Thing Every Day That Scares You!"
The explorations continue ... stay tuned for the next Irish county!