My Recommendations:
Must Do's ...
Oliver Cromwell once said that the Irish rebels could go "to Hell or to Connaught" so he clearly didn't like the western counties of Ireland as much as I did. In fact, my absolute favorite place in Ireland (to-date) is in County Clare. (I'll share what that is in my next post.) The famine hit the western Irish counties very hard causing a good deal of emigration from counties Galway, Clare and Mayo. British influence was still low until the 18th century, so the area is still very Gaelic in outlook and speech, crafts, music, and sports (see my 6/20/10 post on Exploring Dublin and my mentions of the game of Hurling).
crossing into County Clare...
The time was close to 5pm as I left Limerick, my usual time to check into a B&B for the evening, so I decided to drive towards the town of Ennis and hope I could find something quickly. I had so enjoyed my easy evenings and didn't want to spend this one driving.
County Clare...
Within 15 minutes I came across the Bunratty Castle, just outside of the town of Shannon, which had a zillion tourists hanging around a pub next to it called Durty Nelly's. It looked like it would be a fun place to hang, but I didn't want to hang out with large groups of tourists. So I turned onto a lovely road just down a bit and found myself in the cutest little town called Sixmilebridge (history; photos). The area surrounding Sixmilebridge is filled with B&B's...one right after the other as you drive down the roads. Some with well manicured lawn, others typical of a busy family home. I stopped at what looked like a very nice place to stay. Unfortunately, no vacancy. After sizing me up however, the owner decided she was comfortable sending me a few houses down the road to her friend. That B&B was full and I was passed to yet another friend down the road. I checked into the Bunratty Villa.
Bunratty Villa is run by Jackie & Jack Burns. When I arrived, Jackie's mother was also there and she is completely delightful! She reminded me of my Aunt Carol and Aunt Phyllis rolled into one. The window of my room looked to the pasture that runs along the side of the villa. Jackie's mother shared that she counted 13 horses there that very morning. How special that must have been to see! I settled into my room and then headed outside to the patio with table and chairs that I had seen when I drove in. The patio overlooked the field where the horses were that morning.
I sat in the crisp evening air and took in the view. The intensely green field was beautiful with its dusting of yellow clover. Smiling, I thought back on the many people I had met and places I'd experienced on this trip so far. It's been a good trip. I really must begin to write my posts while I'm traveling as being right in 'the moment' is so much more intriquing, isn't it?
After a wonderful dinner at Gallagher's Seafood Restaurant (recently awarded Clare's Best Restaurant 2010 by the Restaurant Association of Ireland), I had the perfect night's sleep as my bed was incredibly comfortable.
In the morning, I awoke to a field of 13 horses just outside my window! I was so excited to get dressed and out to the field that I almost didn't notice one was lying down. What is with these lazy Irish animals?! Strange, I've never seen a horse lie down in a field like this (and I've spent a lot of time in the country throughout my life). Oh no. What if it's actually dead?
Oh no. No no no. Please God no. Just then, the horse lifted its head. Oh thank God. But, again, what is with these lazy Irish farm animals? Throughout my trip, all throughout the day I'd pass fields with cattle, sheep, and horses. And I was surprised to see so many just lying down in the field. In the US, you may see cattle lying down towards the end of the day. But I've never see herds of them lying down throughout the day. And I've never seen sheep not grazing. As a friend said, "Too much Guinness!" I went back into the B&B and dined on a very delicious homemade breakfast. I treated myself and went for the pancakes instead of my usual egg protein breakfast. Jackie's mother and I chatted for quite a while about her husband (may he rest in peace), their wonderful marriage and how they were best friends, raising their children, and life and relationships in general. I didn't want leave.
I stopped at the Bunratty Castle just down the road. Bunratty Castle, Caislean Bhun Raithe ("Castle at the Mouth of the Ratty") is a large tower house. Tower houses date back to the Middle Ages. They were used to defend strategic points with reduced forces, while serving as a noble's residence around which a village was built. This castle is the last of a series on the same site and was built around 1425 by the McNamara clan. During the 16th & 17th centuries it was an important stronghold of the O'Briens, the largest clan in North Munster province (kings and later earls, of Thomond or North Munster province; more on the O'Briens later). My family ancestry traces back to Bunratty Castle when a Burke and O'Brien married (see my post on County Mayo). It's furnished with 15th and 16th century furnishings in the style of the period of the Great Earl. The main block has three floors, each has a single great room or hall. The four towers have six stories each. Entrance to the castle is by drawbridge to the Main Guard. This castle was the most commercial of all of the castles I saw as it also has a folk park built around it with people in period costumes. I imagine children on grade school field trips would find this village captivating! They even offer Medieval Castle Banquets the kiddies may enjoy.
My hope for the day was to head northeast to visit the Cliffs of Moher, go further north to The Burren, continue north not quite into Galway to make a stop at Paddy Burke's pub, then turn around and head south again to the town of Ennis. I say 'hope' b/c my style of traveling is more spontaneous exploration and less following an itinerary (those are for business solamente). Stacey, a dear friend from London, was arriving early the next morning and I needed to be at the Shannon airport to pick her up. It was only a 30 minute drive from Ennis.
I didn't get far before I happened upon Knappogue Castle (Caislean na Cnapoige). This castle was built by Sean MacNamara in 1467 and is also a tower house. The history is quite interesting ranging from battlefield to a residence. In 1571, the castle became the seat of the MacNamara* clan (Earls of West Clancullen). Donagh MacNamara was a leader in the Irish Rebellion of 1641. Oliver Cromwell confiscated the castle after his conquest of Ireland (1649-1653) and gave it to a 'Roundhead' named Arthur Smith. It was eventually returned to the MacNamara clan who sold it to the Scotts in 1800, and they restored the castle. During the War of Independence the castle was used for meetings as well as for headquarters for the Commander of the East Clare Brigade.
A local farmer leased the lands in the 1920's for his cattle to graze. A cow wandered into the castle, up the stone stairs, stepped out onto the crumbling wood floor, and fell to its death on the stones below. As compensation for the cow, the farmer was given the castle and its lands and he continued to graze his cattle there. In 1966, the castle and lands were purchased by the Honorable Mark Edwin Andrews (Houston, Texas, United States). Working with Shannon Development, he did an extensive renovation to its former 15th century style. Shannon Development purchased the castle in 1996 with the intention of preserving the building for future generations.
*MacNamara is one of the most famous names in the history of County Clare, Ireland. The Irish form, MacConmara, means "Hounds of the Sea." They were very powerful and influential in Thomond and built many castles in that region. Sioda Cam MacConmara rebuilt the famous Franciscan Abbey of Quin where many MacNamaras have been laid to rest. Sean Buidhe Mac Conmara (aka John "Fireball" MacNamara) has entered folklore because of his daring exploits and dramatic flair now captured in song and story. Much of his story is questionable as it is difficult to separate fact from fiction after years of retelling. Other groups of the MacNamara clan ruled over Connemara in County Galway and parts of County Mayo. Connor O'Brien (d. 1540), of the also powerful O'Brien clan, was the eldest surviving son of Turlogh-Donn and Raghnait, daughter of John MacNamara chief of the MacNamara clan. When his father passed away in 1528, Connor was inaugurated King of Thomond and reigned for 12 years until his death in 1540.
The castle is also known for its lovely walled garden that dates back to 1817 ...
Must Do's ...
- Castles - Bunratty, Dromoland, and the gardens at Knappogue
- Cliffs of Moher
- The Burren
- Paddy Burke's bar
- not a thing!
Oliver Cromwell once said that the Irish rebels could go "to Hell or to Connaught" so he clearly didn't like the western counties of Ireland as much as I did. In fact, my absolute favorite place in Ireland (to-date) is in County Clare. (I'll share what that is in my next post.) The famine hit the western Irish counties very hard causing a good deal of emigration from counties Galway, Clare and Mayo. British influence was still low until the 18th century, so the area is still very Gaelic in outlook and speech, crafts, music, and sports (see my 6/20/10 post on Exploring Dublin and my mentions of the game of Hurling).
crossing into County Clare...
The time was close to 5pm as I left Limerick, my usual time to check into a B&B for the evening, so I decided to drive towards the town of Ennis and hope I could find something quickly. I had so enjoyed my easy evenings and didn't want to spend this one driving.
County Clare...
Within 15 minutes I came across the Bunratty Castle, just outside of the town of Shannon, which had a zillion tourists hanging around a pub next to it called Durty Nelly's. It looked like it would be a fun place to hang, but I didn't want to hang out with large groups of tourists. So I turned onto a lovely road just down a bit and found myself in the cutest little town called Sixmilebridge (history; photos). The area surrounding Sixmilebridge is filled with B&B's...one right after the other as you drive down the roads. Some with well manicured lawn, others typical of a busy family home. I stopped at what looked like a very nice place to stay. Unfortunately, no vacancy. After sizing me up however, the owner decided she was comfortable sending me a few houses down the road to her friend. That B&B was full and I was passed to yet another friend down the road. I checked into the Bunratty Villa.
Bunratty Villa is run by Jackie & Jack Burns. When I arrived, Jackie's mother was also there and she is completely delightful! She reminded me of my Aunt Carol and Aunt Phyllis rolled into one. The window of my room looked to the pasture that runs along the side of the villa. Jackie's mother shared that she counted 13 horses there that very morning. How special that must have been to see! I settled into my room and then headed outside to the patio with table and chairs that I had seen when I drove in. The patio overlooked the field where the horses were that morning.
I sat in the crisp evening air and took in the view. The intensely green field was beautiful with its dusting of yellow clover. Smiling, I thought back on the many people I had met and places I'd experienced on this trip so far. It's been a good trip. I really must begin to write my posts while I'm traveling as being right in 'the moment' is so much more intriquing, isn't it?
After a wonderful dinner at Gallagher's Seafood Restaurant (recently awarded Clare's Best Restaurant 2010 by the Restaurant Association of Ireland), I had the perfect night's sleep as my bed was incredibly comfortable.
In the morning, I awoke to a field of 13 horses just outside my window! I was so excited to get dressed and out to the field that I almost didn't notice one was lying down. What is with these lazy Irish animals?! Strange, I've never seen a horse lie down in a field like this (and I've spent a lot of time in the country throughout my life). Oh no. What if it's actually dead?
Oh no. No no no. Please God no. Just then, the horse lifted its head. Oh thank God. But, again, what is with these lazy Irish farm animals? Throughout my trip, all throughout the day I'd pass fields with cattle, sheep, and horses. And I was surprised to see so many just lying down in the field. In the US, you may see cattle lying down towards the end of the day. But I've never see herds of them lying down throughout the day. And I've never seen sheep not grazing. As a friend said, "Too much Guinness!" I went back into the B&B and dined on a very delicious homemade breakfast. I treated myself and went for the pancakes instead of my usual egg protein breakfast. Jackie's mother and I chatted for quite a while about her husband (may he rest in peace), their wonderful marriage and how they were best friends, raising their children, and life and relationships in general. I didn't want leave.
I stopped at the Bunratty Castle just down the road. Bunratty Castle, Caislean Bhun Raithe ("Castle at the Mouth of the Ratty") is a large tower house. Tower houses date back to the Middle Ages. They were used to defend strategic points with reduced forces, while serving as a noble's residence around which a village was built. This castle is the last of a series on the same site and was built around 1425 by the McNamara clan. During the 16th & 17th centuries it was an important stronghold of the O'Briens, the largest clan in North Munster province (kings and later earls, of Thomond or North Munster province; more on the O'Briens later). My family ancestry traces back to Bunratty Castle when a Burke and O'Brien married (see my post on County Mayo). It's furnished with 15th and 16th century furnishings in the style of the period of the Great Earl. The main block has three floors, each has a single great room or hall. The four towers have six stories each. Entrance to the castle is by drawbridge to the Main Guard. This castle was the most commercial of all of the castles I saw as it also has a folk park built around it with people in period costumes. I imagine children on grade school field trips would find this village captivating! They even offer Medieval Castle Banquets the kiddies may enjoy.
My hope for the day was to head northeast to visit the Cliffs of Moher, go further north to The Burren, continue north not quite into Galway to make a stop at Paddy Burke's pub, then turn around and head south again to the town of Ennis. I say 'hope' b/c my style of traveling is more spontaneous exploration and less following an itinerary (those are for business solamente). Stacey, a dear friend from London, was arriving early the next morning and I needed to be at the Shannon airport to pick her up. It was only a 30 minute drive from Ennis.
I didn't get far before I happened upon Knappogue Castle (Caislean na Cnapoige). This castle was built by Sean MacNamara in 1467 and is also a tower house. The history is quite interesting ranging from battlefield to a residence. In 1571, the castle became the seat of the MacNamara* clan (Earls of West Clancullen). Donagh MacNamara was a leader in the Irish Rebellion of 1641. Oliver Cromwell confiscated the castle after his conquest of Ireland (1649-1653) and gave it to a 'Roundhead' named Arthur Smith. It was eventually returned to the MacNamara clan who sold it to the Scotts in 1800, and they restored the castle. During the War of Independence the castle was used for meetings as well as for headquarters for the Commander of the East Clare Brigade.
A local farmer leased the lands in the 1920's for his cattle to graze. A cow wandered into the castle, up the stone stairs, stepped out onto the crumbling wood floor, and fell to its death on the stones below. As compensation for the cow, the farmer was given the castle and its lands and he continued to graze his cattle there. In 1966, the castle and lands were purchased by the Honorable Mark Edwin Andrews (Houston, Texas, United States). Working with Shannon Development, he did an extensive renovation to its former 15th century style. Shannon Development purchased the castle in 1996 with the intention of preserving the building for future generations.
*MacNamara is one of the most famous names in the history of County Clare, Ireland. The Irish form, MacConmara, means "Hounds of the Sea." They were very powerful and influential in Thomond and built many castles in that region. Sioda Cam MacConmara rebuilt the famous Franciscan Abbey of Quin where many MacNamaras have been laid to rest. Sean Buidhe Mac Conmara (aka John "Fireball" MacNamara) has entered folklore because of his daring exploits and dramatic flair now captured in song and story. Much of his story is questionable as it is difficult to separate fact from fiction after years of retelling. Other groups of the MacNamara clan ruled over Connemara in County Galway and parts of County Mayo. Connor O'Brien (d. 1540), of the also powerful O'Brien clan, was the eldest surviving son of Turlogh-Donn and Raghnait, daughter of John MacNamara chief of the MacNamara clan. When his father passed away in 1528, Connor was inaugurated King of Thomond and reigned for 12 years until his death in 1540.
The castle is also known for its lovely walled garden that dates back to 1817 ...
Next up: County Clare (part 2) ...
Saint Mary's Church Quin, Dromoland, The Cliffs of Moher, and more.
