Exploring Ireland: County Clare, Ireland (part 2)

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Castles - Dromoland
2. Cliffs of Moher
3. The Burren
4. Paddy Burke's bar

What You Can Skip ...

1. not a thing!

Quin Abbey
Just down the road, in Quin Ireland, I came across St. Mary's Church.  Behind it is a roofless abbey, famously known as Quin Abbey despite it was actually a friary. 

Quin Abbey, only 5 miles outside Ennis, is an Irish Franciscan Monastery that was built in 1402-1433 by Sioda Cam MacNamara.  An earlier monastery was located on this site but burned down in 1278.  The location on the main route from Limerick to Galway made it a target for Normans, the English, and many others.  During the Reformation, England's King Henry VIII confiscated the abbey and passed it to Conor O'Brien, Earl of Thomond.  In about 1590, the MacNamaras regained control and again repaired and restored the abbey.  Later, Oliver Cromwell, lovely man that he was, murdered the monks and destroyed the abbey.  It was again restored in 1671.  No one has lived in the abbey since 1820.

Seeing a pattern of MacNamaras and O'Briens being directly involved in this area of Ireland?

Dromoland Castle
Next, I visited Dromoland Castle located in Newmarket-on-Fergus, Ireland (now Dromoland Castle Hotel & Country Estate, a 5-star facility).  The current building was finished in 1835, however, the first building built here was a 15th or early 16th century tower house built by Thomas, son of Shane Mac Anerheny.  Later it became the residence of eight generations of the O'Brien clan, but earlier it is thought to have been occupied by other local Gaelic families including the McInerneys.

The McInerney sept was based in eastern Thomond and was first recorded in the early 14th century document 'Triumphs of Torlough' (Caithréim Thoirdhealbhaigh).  The 'Triumphs of Torlough' referred to this sept on several occasions as being followers of the McNamaras.  They were an offshoot of the McNamara clan descending to the 12th century Donnough MacNamara.  McInerney translates back to 'son of the Lord of church lands.'

Murrough O'Brien, the first Earl of Thomond (granted by Henry VIII), listed Dromoland in his will in 1551.   Dromoland went to his third son, Donough MacMurrough O'Brien.  In 1582 Donough was hanged in Limerick for charges of rebellion, and the government forfeited all of this property to the Queen.  Sir George Cusack, sheriff, took possession of Dromoland and years later Turlough O'Brien killed Cusack while the O'Briens re-possessed Dromoland.

Sir John Bernard Burke, a British officer and a genealogist, wrote of Dromoland in his Visitation of seats and arms of the noblemen and gentlemen of Great Britain (1855):

"... Dromoland one of the most beautiful and desirable residences in Ireland." 

(I don't know whether or not I'm related to Sir John BB, but I will admit that my great great grandfather's name was John Burke.  I doubt that he was a British officer given he ran with Jesse and Frank James.  But that's a family story for another time.)

The history of this castle is endless, so I won't go further into it except to bring in a modern day twist that first requires a quick introduction to the O'Brien clan (as promised in my last two posts):

The O'Brien clan was founded in the 10th century by Brian Boruma (b 941 - d 1014) of the Dal gCais sept (or Dalcassians) and they rose to political prominence.  After becoming King of Munster, Brian established himself as the High King of Ireland through conquest.  His descendants took the name O'Brien and continued to rule Munster until the 12th century when their territory shrunk to the Kingdom of Thomond and of which they would hold for just under five centuries.  Four O'Briens ruled in Munster, and two held the High Kingship of Ireland position (with great opposition).  Thomond remained the heartland of the Dál gCais and its septs and is mostly associated with the O'Briens.

Interestingly, here's the modern day twist to the story... 
Family and descendents of Brian Boruma reigned as Thomond's kings from the 930s to 1543, and then as Baron Inchiquin from 1543 to today.  That's 1,080 consecutive years of reign by one family!  Currently reigning as the 18th Baron Inchiquin is Sir Conor O'Brien, a thirty-second generation descendant of Boruma.  He is also known simply as The O'Brien.  (Chief of the Name is the title for the recognized head of a clan and is still in use where Gaelic traditions continue, such as the western counties of Ireland.)  I may be incorrect, but I haven't found another such lengthy clan reign in Irish history.

And the twist continues:
As Ireland's economic crisis has greatly worsened over the last 2 weeks, countrymen are calling for a general election in January 2011.  And guess who is being nominated for the position of President of Ireland?  Yep, you guessed it.  Sir Conor O'Brien!  You may follow his progress, and even email him, on the O'Brien clan's official website.

So the question begs, because we are, afterall, in the year 2010 when social media is king, does The ÓBriain, Prince of Thomond, Chief of the Name, The 18th Baron Inchiquin, 10th Baronet of Leamaneh have a Facebook or MySpace page?  Does he Tweet?  Sadly, with the exception of a few 'fan' created profiles/pages, The O'Brien is not interactively social:

Sir Conor O'Brien For President - Facebook

Conor Myles John O'Brien, 18th Baron Inchiquin - Facebook

Interesting, isn't it?

Next up:  County Clare (part 3) ...

Cliffs of Moher, The Burren, Paddy Burke's, and more.  I promise we'll complete the journey through Ireland before Christmas!

Exploring Ireland: County Clare, Ireland (part 1)

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Castles - Bunratty, Dromoland, and the gardens at Knappogue
2. Cliffs of Moher
3. The Burren
4. Paddy Burke's bar

What You Can Skip ...

1. not a thing!

You may be wondering why I haven't spoken much of the various family clans until my last post.  After all, we Irish Americans are proud of our roots and descend on Ireland amazed at seeing our family name plastered on businesses and historical markers.  As I traveled, in my mind I had reserved 'family time' for when I reached the western counties since that's where my family is from.  Until I arrived in Limerick, I had spotted only one 'Burke' sign but had seen oh so many Donovan, Kelly, O'Neill, and every other Irish surname you can think of.  However, I was now in an area even more rich with clan history so those of you who love history as I do will enjoy the next several posts.

Oliver Cromwell once said that the Irish rebels could go "to Hell or to Connaught" so he clearly didn't like the western counties of Ireland as much as I did.  In fact, my absolute favorite place in Ireland (to-date) is in County Clare.  (I'll share what that is in my next post.)  The famine hit the western Irish counties very hard causing a good deal of emigration from counties Galway, Clare and Mayo.  British influence was still low until the 18th century, so the area is still very Gaelic in outlook and speech, crafts, music, and sports (see my 6/20/10 post on Exploring Dublin and my mentions of the game of Hurling).

crossing into County Clare...
The time was close to 5pm as I left Limerick, my usual time to check into a B&B for the evening, so I decided to drive towards the town of Ennis and hope I could find something quickly.  I had so enjoyed my easy evenings and didn't want to spend this one driving.

County Clare...
Within 15 minutes I came across the Bunratty Castle, just outside of the town of Shannon, which had a zillion tourists hanging around a pub next to it called Durty Nelly's.  It looked like it would be a fun place to hang, but I didn't want to hang out with large groups of tourists.  So I turned onto a lovely road just down a bit and found myself in the cutest little town called Sixmilebridge (history; photos).  The area surrounding Sixmilebridge is filled with B&B's...one right after the other as you drive down the roads.  Some with well manicured lawn, others typical of a busy family home.  I stopped at what looked like a very nice place to stay.  Unfortunately, no vacancy.  After sizing me up however, the owner decided she was comfortable sending me a few houses down the road to her friend.  That B&B was full and I was passed to yet another friend down the road.  I checked into the Bunratty Villa.

Bunratty Villa is run by Jackie & Jack Burns.  When I arrived, Jackie's mother was also there and she is completely delightful!  She reminded me of my Aunt Carol and Aunt Phyllis rolled into one.  The window of my room looked to the pasture that runs along the side of the villa.  Jackie's mother shared that she counted 13 horses there that very morning.  How special that must have been to see!  I settled into my room and then headed outside to the patio with table and chairs that I had seen when I drove in. The patio overlooked the field where the horses were that morning.

I sat in the crisp evening air and took in the view.  The intensely green field was beautiful with its dusting of yellow clover.  Smiling, I thought back on the many people I had met and places I'd experienced on this trip so far.  It's been a good trip.  I really must begin to write my posts while I'm traveling as being right in 'the moment' is so much more intriquing, isn't it?

After a wonderful dinner at Gallagher's Seafood Restaurant (recently awarded Clare's Best Restaurant 2010 by the Restaurant Association of Ireland),  I had the perfect night's sleep as my bed was incredibly comfortable.

In the morning, I awoke to a field of 13 horses just outside my window!  I was so excited to get dressed and out to the field that I almost didn't notice one was lying down.  What is with these lazy Irish animals?!  Strange, I've never seen a horse lie down in a field like this (and I've spent a lot of time in the country throughout my life).  Oh no.  What if it's actually dead?  

 

Oh no.  No no no.  Please God no.  Just then, the horse lifted its head.  Oh thank God.  But, again, what is with these lazy Irish farm animals?  Throughout my trip, all throughout the day I'd pass fields with cattle, sheep, and horses.  And I was surprised to see so many just lying down in the field.  In the US, you may see cattle lying down towards the end of the day.  But I've never see herds of them lying down throughout the day.  And I've never seen sheep not grazing.  As a friend said, "Too much Guinness!"   I went back into the B&B and dined on a very delicious homemade breakfast.  I treated myself and went for the pancakes instead of my usual egg protein breakfast.  Jackie's mother and I chatted for quite a while about her husband (may he rest in peace), their wonderful marriage and how they were best friends, raising their children, and life and relationships in general.  I didn't want leave.

I stopped at the Bunratty Castle just down the road.  Bunratty Castle, Caislean Bhun Raithe ("Castle at the Mouth of the Ratty") is a large tower house.  Tower houses date back to the Middle Ages.  They were used to defend strategic points with reduced forces, while serving as a noble's residence around which a village was built. This castle is the last of a series on the same site and was built around 1425 by the McNamara clan.  During the 16th & 17th centuries it was an important stronghold of the O'Briens, the largest clan in North Munster province (kings and later earls, of Thomond or North Munster province; more on the O'Briens later).  My family ancestry traces back to Bunratty Castle when a Burke and O'Brien married (see my post on County Mayo).  It's furnished with 15th and 16th century furnishings in the style of the period of the Great Earl.  The main block has three floors, each has a single great room or hall.  The four towers have six stories each.  Entrance to the castle is by drawbridge to the Main Guard.  This castle was the most commercial of all of the castles I saw as it also has a folk park built around it with people in period costumes.  I imagine children on grade school field trips would find this village captivating!  They even offer Medieval Castle Banquets the kiddies may enjoy.

My hope for the day was to head northeast to visit the Cliffs of Moher, go further north to The Burren, continue north not quite into Galway to make a stop at Paddy Burke's pub, then turn around and head south again to the town of Ennis.  I say 'hope' b/c my style of traveling is more spontaneous exploration and less following an itinerary (those are for business solamente).  Stacey, a dear friend from London, was arriving early the next morning and I needed to be at the Shannon airport to pick her up.  It was only a 30 minute drive from Ennis.

I didn't get far before I happened upon Knappogue Castle (Caislean na Cnapoige).  This castle was built by Sean MacNamara in 1467 and is also a tower house.   The history is quite interesting ranging from battlefield to a residence.  In 1571, the castle became the seat of the MacNamara* clan (Earls of West Clancullen).  Donagh MacNamara was a leader in the Irish Rebellion of 1641.  Oliver Cromwell confiscated the castle after his conquest of Ireland (1649-1653) and gave it to a 'Roundhead' named Arthur Smith.  It was eventually returned to the MacNamara clan who sold it to the Scotts in 1800, and they restored the castle.  During the War of Independence the castle was used for meetings as well as for headquarters for the Commander of the East Clare Brigade.

A local farmer leased the lands in the 1920's for his cattle to graze.  A cow wandered into the castle, up the stone stairs, stepped out onto the crumbling wood floor, and fell to its death on the stones below. As compensation for the cow, the farmer was given the castle and its lands and he continued to graze his cattle there. In 1966, the castle and lands were purchased by the Honorable Mark Edwin Andrews (Houston, Texas, United States).  Working with Shannon Development, he did an extensive renovation to its former 15th century style.  Shannon Development purchased the castle in 1996 with the intention of preserving the building for future generations.

*MacNamara is one of the most famous names in the history of County Clare, Ireland.  The Irish form, MacConmara, means "Hounds of the Sea."  They were very powerful and influential in Thomond and built many castles in that region.  Sioda Cam MacConmara rebuilt the famous Franciscan Abbey of Quin where many MacNamaras have been laid to rest.  Sean Buidhe Mac Conmara (aka John "Fireball" MacNamara) has entered folklore because of his daring exploits and dramatic flair now captured in song and story.  Much of his story is questionable as it is difficult to separate fact from fiction after years of retelling.  Other groups of the MacNamara clan ruled over Connemara in County Galway and parts of County Mayo.  Connor O'Brien (d. 1540), of the also powerful O'Brien clan, was the eldest surviving son of Turlogh-Donn and Raghnait, daughter of John MacNamara chief of the MacNamara clan.  When his father passed away in 1528, Connor was inaugurated King of Thomond and reigned for 12 years until his death in 1540.

The castle is also known for its lovely walled garden that dates back to 1817 ...

 

Next up:  County Clare (part 2) ...

Saint Mary's Church Quin, Dromoland, The Cliffs of Moher, and more.

Airport Security Tips for the Disabled, Hooker Shoes, & NeoDiet Blue

With this post, I'm giving you permission to laugh at me versus with me.  Go ahead.  Get it out of your system.

Clearing airport security is an art form.  Those of us who travel often, for business and personal, have it down to a science.  Yes, very similar to what George Clooney did in Up In The Air.  Although hopefully without the ethnic stereotyping.  For those who are disabled it can be even more challenging, especially as we go into the heavy traffic season of holiday travel.

Airport Security Tips for the Disabled

Having traveled with my mother, who requires a wheelchair to get around an airport, I must admit that I love traveling with someone in her situation.  All you need to do is make prior arrangements and an airport attendant will be on-hand with a wheelchair when you check in.  The attendant pushes the wheelchair.  You are taken to the front of the line to clear security, customs, and immigration.  And, regardless of whether or not you have membership, you're typically taken to the flying club to await boarding.  That said, the handicapped person must still be prepared to take their shoes off at security, as well as walk through the scanner.  The attendant assists with all of this.

But for those of us who aren't typically handicapped and find ourselves in a temporary handicapped position, it's a bit more challenging.  Yes, you can make the arrangements noted above but if the handicap is relatively minor then any seasoned traveler would rather continue on their own.

Hooker Shoes

I recently found myself in a temporary 'disabled' situation.  How I came to be in this state, of course, is a story in and of itself ...  

At some point in recent time, what we used to call 'hooker shoes' became business-appropriate.  You know, the 5" high heeled platform pump.  And, yes, I succumbed to fashion.  

I was at a Manhattan rooftop bar of a very nice hotel with a business associate.  It was late at night so quite dark, and as we walked to a table I didn't see the two very small stairs and I completely lost my footing ... on both feet ... in my no-longer-hooker-but-now-very-fashionable pumps.  Graceful.  I was mortified.

Women around the world know that when wearing platform shoes you can't feel the ground, and so regaining your footing can be quite challenging when you lose it on both feet.  Thankfully, my associate has a ton of kids and his arm immediately popped out Jerry Seinfeld 'Stopping Short' style.  As I clung for my life, literally hanging off of his arm (he must be quite strong), it took me a while to get my footing back.   

The next morning, I couldn't move my foot.  I ended up in an orthopedic boot and banned from heels, dancing, and running.   As I was leaving for a week in Miami the next day, I was not happy.  How does any woman go to Miami and not wear sexy heels with little skimpy dresses, dance, or run on the beach?  

(No, this ugly foot is not mine.  It came with the photo.)

Initially my doctor brought out a boot that looked like a tall ski boot.  "Oh...no no no no," I said to him as I waved my index finger back & forth.  So he brought out a boot like the one above only it was 'closed toe.'  I had to wear this lovely boot for 2.5 months.  And as a result of my mobility being greatly restricted, I regained the weight that I lost this past spring.  Lovely.  And I was so enjoying being back into my fantastic wardrobe again.   

Sigh.

NeoDiet Blue

Not to fear!  As I wrote in my 5/9/10 post entitled "Bodies, Adventure, Travel, and Topless Bathing Suits",  a friend of mine has the perfect aid to help me get my body back quickly.  So I'm now hanging out with my dear friends NeoDiet Blue (by Laura Termini's Neotura) and NY Health & Racquet Club ...   Holiday dresses, here I come!

Oh yes, Here's How I Cleared Security

-some TSA agents required me to put the boot on the belt, but I did not have to remove the bandage from my foot ... easy breezy
-most TSA agencts required I leave the boot on.  This also meant a 5-10 minute wait for someone to swab the boot and test for explosive substance.  The longest part of this process, of course, was waiting for someone to actually come over to conduct the test.  Ah, the joys of clearing security these days.

Happy Holiday Travels!!

Exploring Ireland: County Limerick, Ireland

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Adare, County Limerick

What You Can Skip ...

1. Sorry, as I didn't explore much so I'm not quite sure.

on the drive to County Limerick...
I took the northern road from the town of Dingle back across the peninsula to Tralee and then the cross-country highway up to the town of Limerick.  Tralee is the largest town in County Kerry and its name means 'strand of the Lee' (river).   As I wanted to cover a lot of ground, I skipped driving to the tip of the Dingle Peninsula which overlooks the Blasket Islands.  I'm certain it is a sight to behold, and later on my trip I experienced such an overlook that caused me not to care that I'd missed the view of these islands.

County Limerick ...
I must be fair in my assessment of Limerick, both the county and the city.  Despite it is the County that we believe my leg of the Burke clan is from, in the province of Munster,  I didn't spend much time exploring.  The drive there your average Irish countryside.  Nothing really stood out to me ... until I drove into Adare, County Limerick, Ireland.

Adare Village ...
In the Middle Ages, Adare was a market town and crossing point on River Maigue.  A major settlement with an Augustinian Priory, Franciscan Abbey, Trinitarian Abbey, and Desmond Castle (built by the O'Donovan* clan).  The main street is a mix of quintessential Irish architecture with English architecture (many thatched cottages).  The street is so narrow and has a small curb that driving it was the only time I brushed a curb (pretty good for a newbie to driving on the right).  It's known as one of Ireland's prettiest villages and has been designated a Heritage Town by the Irish government.

And there is the spectacular 5-Star Adare Manor Hotel & Golf Resort with 840 acres of gardens and land.  Aside from being one of the top golf resorts, in terms of activities the Manor also offers:  falconry, rental of a classic car, fishing, cycling, equestrian, archery, clay pigeon shooting, walking trails, and hot air balloon rides. Adare is definitely a tourist attraction but it's still worth visiting even if you simply drive through.

*O'Donovan is both an Irish surname and a hereditary Gaelic title.  The O'Donovans are descendants of the 10th century Donnuban mac Cathail, ruler of the Irish regional kingdom of Ui Fidgenti, and are princes of Ui Fidgenti.  Later in history they fell into obscurity for several centuries.  Later still the O'Donovan became a feudal lord underneath the MacCarthy Reagh Princes of Carbery and dropped the limited but true royal status.  The O'Donovan history is an interesting one ~ read here and here.

Limerick City ...
Limerick City was established as a Viking settlement in the 10th century and was eventually enlarged by the Anglo-Normans about 100 years later.  They built King John's Castle,  circa 1200, which is one of the best examples of Anglo-Norman architecture in Ireland.  However, the castle is predated by St. Mary's Cathedral, found in 1172 by Donal O'Brien (one of the High Kings of Munster; more on the O'Briens later).  Limerick sits on the River Shannon and is the fifth largest city in all of Ireland.

The architecture of the homes is outstanding ...

 

I drove to Limerick thinking that I'd explore the city a bit and spend the night there (despite that a friend in New York, who is from Galway, advised me to drive through it without stopping because it's known as "Stab City").  When I arrived in the city I truly was not comfortable as I drove through downtown.  It did look rough.  Although, I'm sure the fact that it was a cold, gray rainy day added to my impression, not to mention the thought that Carmel had already implanted in my psyche.

The time was close to 5pm, my usual time to check into a B&B for the evening.  I knew I didn't want to stay in Limerick.  I needed to decide what I was going to do ...

Next up:  County Clare ...
(I have so much to share about this county that I decided to share in its own post.)

Exploring Ireland: County Kerry (part 2)

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

• Drive through the countryside & backroads
• Park the car on the side of the road and go sit in a field of the greenest grass you've ever seen!  
• Inch Beach
• Dingle

What You Can Skip ...

•  Not a thing!

continuing from Killarney to Dingle…

Driving from Killarney out to the Dingle Peninsula was one of my most spectacular drives in Ireland!  Fields of the greenest grass you've ever seen sway in the breeze on the side of the steep rolling hills.  The road twists and turns.  It was a lovely day with a perfectly blue sky and bright sunshine.  Every now and then a house appeared from nowhere always in a bright color of ... you name it.  Red.  Green.  Yellow.  The colors were so bright and vivid that they reminded me of Mexico.

I pulled to the side of the road to take these photos as the view was so breathtaking.  Many times, throughout my travels, I'm overwhelmed with a feeling or emotion that a specific view evokes.  At those times, I always take a photo of that exact view so that I can remember how I felt when I saw it.  And whenever I look at the photo, I'm transported back to that moment.  This was one such moment ...

The countryside was so quintessential Ireland. The side of the road dropped to a field where cattle were grazing.  I squatted down and leaned forward so I could capture a shot with the cattle in it when ... AGH! ... I suddenly screamed and fell backward!  I hadn't seen the cow that was just below me, nor had she seen me, until she raised her head and our faces were 8 inches apart!  We stared at each other for a second, I laughed and she stood as I stroked her face.

It is obvious why County Kerry is known as the most beautiful of all of the Irish counties.

You've probably heard of 'The Dingle Way.'  The Dingle Way refers to the Dingle Peninsula.  While in Dublin, several of the local Irishmen advised me, due to my short stay in Ireland, to skip the Ring of Kerry and instead 'go The Dingle Way.'  At the base of the Peninsula are the peaks of the Slieve Mish mountain range.  Baurtregaum is its highest summit reaching to 2800 feet (850 metres).  I longed to climb, but decided to save that for a return trip to Ireland.

Rounding a bend in the road, my jaw dropped open.  The view before me was ... indescribable.  I'd stumbled upon Inch Beach.

Inch is a fairly small community that sets around Inch Beach.  There's a wonderful view of the Atlantic Ocean and McGillycuddy Reeks (the highest mountain range in Ireland).  The beach is four miles long and stretches into Dingle Bay.  

Anyone who knows me is aware that I cannot pass a beach without, at least, getting my feet ankle deep into the water.  Beaches relax my body and re-balance my mind.  They are very spiritual for me.  I pulled into the large parking lot and turned off the engine of my car.  Being a chilly day with moments of sprinkling rain, I grabbed my rain/hiking jacket from the trunk and walked towards the beach.  

The beach was, for the most part, empty.  There were a few tourists sitting at the picnic tables just outside of the rough cafe / surf shop that sat on a small hill overlooking the water.  I could see a surf truck parked on the beach and one lone surfer in the water.  I hoped his wet suit was warm enough for the very cold water on this chilly day.  I, myself, prefer warm water diving.  The water was so cold that as soon as the wave pushed it over my feet ... that was enough for me!  

I spent about 45 minutes slowly strolling the beach, absorbing the mountains in the background, listening to the waves, and allowing my mind to do what it does best at the beach ... contemplate life.  Thinking back and thinking present and landing on the forward.  I thought back on the past five months of working entirely too many hours for anyone and promised I would not sacrifice that much of my life for business again.  Not the first time I've promised this to myself, but sometimes we have to relearn life lessons.  The future was bright.

Dingle, Ireland ...  
To the north and south of the Slieve Mish mountains are roads that provide fantastic marine and mountain views.  Especially as you go through Conor Pass on the way to the town of Dingle.  Dingle is a fishing village at the foot of Ballysitteragh beside what appears to be an enclosed harbor.  It had been the site of a Celtic fort.  During the Middle Ages, it was a western port trading with the Spanish. Throughout my journey, the locals had told me to see Fungi, the dolphin who lives in the Dingle harbor and has become a 'must see' on the tourist list, as he prefers humans to other dolphins.  He must have been napping during my visit.

Dingle seems to also be a fun destination town for the Irish for summer surfing and romantic getaways.  It truly is adorable.

Having skipped it, I can't speak to the famous Ring of Kerry but the Dingle Peninsula is so beautiful that I could not believe any other place could be more so.  I was glad I heeded the Irishmen's advice.

Next up:  From County Kerry to County Clare ...

The Joys of Fall

As Fall officially begins this week, I'm delaying the next Irish excursion to share some options for your Fall fun planning.

My Recommendations:

• Ohio - Hocking Hills State Park, Lebanon's Applefest (9/25, 10am-7pm) and the Golden Lamb Inn
• Vail, Colorado -Vail Marriott Mountain Resort & Spa, Sweet Basil restaurant, Les Delices de France ('The French Deli' as the locals call it)
• Kentucky - the exquisite Keeneland Racetrack in the heart of Lexington horse country (10/8 - 10/30/10), Red River Gorge State Park, Natural Bridge, bourbon tastings, Fort Boonesborough
• Vermont - The Equinox Golf Resort & Spa, Orvis Fly Fishing School, Orvis School of Shooting, The British School of Falconry, leaf peeping
• Washington - Whidbey Island (The Saratoga Inn, Deception Pass State Park), Seattle (Kimpton's Hotel Vintage Park)
• New York State - Hunter Mountain, Finger Lakes

What You Can Skip ...

• Not a thing.
• Especially don't write off anything because it's rustic or primitive.  Whether it's a B&B, restaurant, shop, or apple orchard.  Explore it.  In the Fall, I have found the more primitive, the more adventure!

Fall is my favorite time of the year!

I love the colors of the foliage, the cool nip in the air, crisp apples and fresh apple cidar, pumpkin patches, champagne and Keeneland Racetrack, Indian corn and squash to bring Fall into my home, spending Halloween 'Trick or Treating' with my niece and nephew, and small town Fall festivals.

One of my favorite things to do in the Fall is to explore.  What I call 'getting lost' ~ simply getting in the car and driving, following the path of 'let's take that road' and 'turn down this road' to see what we find and where we end up.  Tripping over quaint towns, strolling their shops of crafts, sipping hot apple cidar, small town restaurants with homemade pie.  I love pie.  The fun is never knowing what you'll find.  Sometimes I come home that night.  Other times I find a B&B.

Another favorite of mine is hiking.  Fall hiking is the best.  Not too hot, not too cold.

I was fortunate to grow up with my own private hiking grounds.  Approximately 150 miles east of Cincinnati, Ohio is a place where, as a friend of mine says, "my heart is."  My heart actually lies in three places (to-date) ... Meigs County, Ohio; Olmo, Italy; and, Sorrento, Italy.  The latter two places lead to explorations to be shared at another time.  But, ahh, Meigs County, Ohio.  My Father and his 9 siblings (yes, 9) grew up in Meigs County and while only three live in the area still, most own property in these wooded foothills of the Appalachian Mountains.  When I was a young girl, we built a cabin on our acreage.  My summers and many weekends were spent hiking the hills with my brothers and my cousins.  We chased deer on motorcycles (I holding onto Brien, my older brother, who did the driving), took late night wagon rides arguing over who would drive the tractor pulling it, named the paths we created and the creek pools and rock cliffs that God created.  Years later, I would enjoy the same with my step-children, Matt & Meagan, teaching them how to identify the tracks of animals.

Having moved five years ago to New York, I can no longer decide, on a Friday evening's drive home after a long work week, to quickly pack a bag and be on the road to my little slice of heaven.  I miss being able to stop the world and hop off for a few days on the spur of the moment.   It's a bit trickier to get out of Manhattan at the last minute.

A nice thing about New York is that a short drive out of the city and you're in beautiful countryside with lovely mountains.  The Hudson River School existed for a valid reason.  As does ZipCar.  I'll never forget my awe the first time I drove out of the city and through the Hudson River Valley.  Memories of the many paintings my Father had from the HRS flooded my mind.  I had loved the paintings, and I fell in love with the Valley.  The trick to getting out of Manhattan and into surrounding areas for hiking is transportation, given I sold my car when I moved here.  The one time I made a Friday spur of the moment decision to head out found me extremely fortunate.  After an hour search on the internet I was able to get the one rental car that was unreserved within a 30 mile radius of Manhattan.  So spur of the moment here can be ... tricky tricky.

Love, Marriage, and Hiking in Vail, Colorado 
The second weekend in August I had the honor of attending a friend's wedding in Vail.  This was my first trip to Vail and I will always remember stepping out of the plane and smelling the clean, sweet air!  On the drive to the town of Vail, I absorbed the spirit of the mountains and finally understood why my brother and sister-in-law plan to retire here.

Vail can be a forgotten adventure in the summer and fall.  While I have yet to visit during the winter ski season, I can only imagine the crowds and assume I prefer it in the off-season.

A word to the wise:  In booking this trip, I was able to find good deals on flights, hotel, and rental car.  For the first time, I booked flights through Marriott's online travel ... which I didn't know existed ... and was able to save another $50 off the already low fares offered by travelocity, expedia, and airline sites.  The only issue was the ticket was issued by either United or US Air (I can't remember which), but the fight was actually on the other airline.  My online check-in took about an hour as none of the airline sites had my reservation.  While in the security line, the woman in front of me shared that she booked the same way and went to the wrong airline the day before, causing her to miss the flight.  I was thankful that I completed my online check-in versus giving up and simply checking in at the airport kiosk.

Family and friends were staying at the Vail Marriott Mountain Resort & Spa where the wedding was to take place.  We arrived a few days early so we could enjoy the mountains and some hiking.  After checking into the hotel, I immediately went to the spa for a massage (now becoming a ritual on my personal travel).  I have had only one good massage at a hotel spa before (Fitzwilliam Hotel, Dublin), but this upped the count to two.  This massage snob found the massage to be fabulous!

Hiking up the mountains was a bit of a challenge given the high altitude ... it was a bit painful to breathe.  I left my friends and went back down the mountain to ride the gondola up.  I was very disappointed with myself.  But, once on the mountaintop, my disappointment faded with the awe of the sights.  Joining my friends for the hike down was fantastic and very therapeutic.

Watching my friend dance with his bride that evening so very happy, brought to mind something that I'd heard often in church:  That quite often, we meet someone when we have so much happening in our life...changes, pain, problems, whatever...and we determine it's not the best time to bring someone new into our life.  We can't make room for them or we think we must have our life sorted out before getting involved.  When, in fact, God is bringing someone into our life at that moment because He knows it is what we both need.

It was a reminder to me that life is short and when we care for someone, we should put aside circumstances ... and pride ... and simply go for it.

Life.  Mountains.  Hiking.  The freshness of Fall.  Love.  This weekend.

This is what life is about.

Exploring: Counties Cork and Kerry, Ireland (part 1)

I'm sorry for the lack of posts, especially in the middle of a trip.  It has been a busy summer!  Also, please overlook formatting as I'm having issues with my account.  

Thanks, & Safe Travels!
Karen

My Recommendations:

Must Do's ...

1. Killarney - town, The Fairview Guesthouse, Gaby's Seafood Restaurant, Sheehan's Pub
2. Killarney National Park
   
3. Buy Irish lace

What You Can Skip ...

1.  Not a thing!
   

continuing from Waterford …

I completed my morning jaunt around Waterford with a delicious cappuccino while sitting outside at the corner cafe.  Then, back on the road again ...

County Cork, Ireland ...  

Driving the coastal road from Waterford to County Cork, and just before arriving at the charming town of Dungarvan, I found myself on a road so narrow that only one car could pass through … again.  It was lovely.  However, for this first-time left-side driver, it was a bit nerve racking as I never knew if I would come across an on-coming car when I came out of the many twists and turns.  Along each side of the road were thick hedges that were so perfectly manicured they transformed the dense greenery into flat walls.  The walls must have been 7 - 8' high and they caused me to feel as though I was driving through a maze.  As my side mirrors slid their way down the hedges on both sides of the car, I knew I would receive an unhappy gaze when I returned it.  And just as I rounded out of a curve, I saw a lovely golf resort, Gold Coast Golf Club.  Against the blue sky, the lime green of the grounds brought with it an exhale and a smile from me.


I drove on to Dungarvan, a very charming town that is separated from the ocean by a shallow bay.  Quite an interesting site to see, a navigation channel marked by red/green buoys leads into Dungarvan from the ocean. For most vessels, except the very small, the channel is not navigable at low tide. And even at high tide yachts and larger vessels must remain in the buoyed channel.  I stopped for ice cream and sat on the edge of the bay watching the boats master their way through the course, and absorbed the Irish everyday life as it buzzed around me.


Not long after, as I drove into the city of Cork, Ireland, I seriously think I had already heard Train's 'Hey Soul Sister' about twenty times.  It was really starting to get on my nerves.  Thank God for my iPod.


I've heard only extremes about the city of Cork ... ‘just another city’ and ‘utterly wonderful.’  Nothing in between.  So curiosity had the best of me.  Being the second largest & the third most populous city in Ireland, Cork is a major Irish seaport.  Its harbour is one of the world's largest natural harbours.  Interestingly, Cork is built on the River Lee which separates into two channels on one end of the city.  The city centre, my first destination whenever I approach a new city, is located on the island created by those channels.  A very interesting sight.  The main road had extremely wide sidewalks ... almost a plaza of sorts ... with interesting posts for electrical wires and street lights.  They were more like spikes than posts, actually.  Off of this 'plaza' were small alleyways lined with quaint bars and cafes.  It reminded me of Italy.  Despite that, the city itself didn't capture me.  What did capture me, though, is the distinct impression I had that were I to live in Cork I would have an incredible community of friends.  In that regard, it reminded me of my hometown, Cincinnati.  And as such, I deemed it a city of friendly people.

County Kerry, Ireland ...  

The drive from Cork to the town of Killarney in County Kerry was the first of my two favorite drives of the trip (the other being in Connemara).  Part of me doesn’t want to admit this is the most beautiful region in Ireland simply because it is the top tourist destination given the scenery.  I don’t believe I’ve ever agreed with the tourist pov before, but, incredible beauty is incredible beauty!


If you take the main road between the towns you will drive through the outer parts of Killarney National Forest (also known as Killarney National Park).  The density of the forest has caused the tree branches to hang over the road forming a lush tunnel as a welcome entry into the region.  I was in complete awe as I drove and desperate to capture my feeling on film so I could relive these moments over and over again.  There wasn’t space to pull off to the side of the road, so I took to snapping photos through the windshield as I drove.  Only one photo is worth sharing and it's the photo I took as I came out of the tunnel ~ so it misses the wonder.  But, it does bring the previous visuals to my mind.

Coming out of the tunnel I was immediately in the Derrynasaggart Mountain region.  These mountains are breath-taking and my camera simply couldn’t do them justice!  (Of course, it had nothing to do with my photographic skills.)  Further into the forest heading onto the Iveragh Penisula, County Kerry has the highest mountain in all of Ireland, Carrauntoohill.

I pulled into the quaint town of Killarney and drove through the city centre.  The streets were lined with shops, pubs, and B&B’s each painted a different color.  I found the public parking, left my car and walked back to the centre to check out a few shops and get a recommendation on a good B&B.


There was a large lace shop with beautiful Irish lace serving every functionality you can imagine.  As I had planned to buy Irish lace for my mother and nieces, this was the perfect stop.  I bought my mother a runner, and also inquired of a B&B.  The shopkeeper recommended The Fairview Guesthouse.  While telling me how to drive there, she became very flustered and nervous that I would get lost so she drew a map for me.  It looked easy as I had just driven the area where she was directing me.  Still, she was so concerned that I would get lost that she insisted on looking up the phone number for me.


When I pulled up to The Fairview Guesthouse, on, literally, the street behind the lace shop & just a few buildings down, I knew this was a gem because it was absolutely lovely.  James O'Neill, the owner, offered me an upgrade for only an additional 10 euros so my room had a skylight, plasma screen tv, and...a jacuzzi.  I made a cup of tea, my afternoon ritual, and enjoyed it in the jacuzzi.  After a long, relaxing soak, I dressed for dinner and asked James for a few recommendations on restaurants and where I could go to hear Irish music.  As I walked out of the inn, a very tall, handsome, and unusually polished backpacker was entering.  We greeted each other and continued on our way.


I was so relaxed that I strolled the streets slowly, enjoying the sunlight that shines during the evenings in Ireland and tried to determine what I wanted for dinner.  Amongst couples, I passed an attractive guy also strolling alone and my senses quickly told me that he was the local 'hottie' out to pick up a tourist.  Needless to say, I gave him none of my attention.  As I neared the end of the strip, I decided on the award-winning Gaby's Seafood Restaurant.  


Taking a seat at the small, rustic bar, I immediately fell into conversation with the bartender.   I ordered a glass of wine from their fabulous wine list when I quickly realized that I was in perfect position to be hounded by large groups of American men who were clearly golf buddies making their way across the Irish circuit of courses.  I'd managed to avoid these packs since my arrival in Ireland.  Not that I'm not a fan of golfers, mind you, nor do I want to stereotype ... however ... every one of these groups that I'd come across appeared to be 'adult men gone wild' as they were always drunk, or well on their way, and looking for women to drink with.


Not long after, two gentlemen came in and sat next to me.  They were Americans sporting their golf polo shirts.  So, at first, I was a bit put off they sat next to me.  But they were delightful.  (Sadly, my file on my blackberry where I documented names of those I met, small discoveries and my thoughts when I came across them, vanished when I sync'ed my blackberry upon my return to New York.)  The older gentleman, let's call him Rick, lives in Sarasota, Florida and evidently is a fabulous golfer.  The younger, we'll name him George because I do believe that was his name, splits his time between being a golf pro in Sarasota and an Opera singer in Manhattan.  Both men were quite handsome and vying for my attention.  If I sparked to something George said and we conversed on the subject, Rick would clearly get miffed and change the subject causing George and I to smile and exchange knowing looks.  If Rick and I sparked on a conversation, George, however, would simply listen and smile.  Oh how sensitive is the male ego!  :)  These two seemed to be really good men and I was disappointed when, an hour later, their dining table was ready for them to be seated.  Once again, life brought two amazing people to me during my journey and I was thankful.


As I finished my dinner there at the bar, I decided it was time to hear some traditional Irish music.  It was 10:30 p.m. and the sun was shining as bright as if it was only 4 p.m.  As I strolled back towards Sheehan's Pub, I saw a group of men gathered in front of the door and I could hear the very non-Irish music.  It was dark when I entered and full of men.  My first thought was, "Oh, please God, don't let these guys be drunk as I really don't want to spend the evening in my hotel room!"  The bar was full, although not yet packed, and as I made my way down the long, narrow bar I finally found an open spot where I could easily get a drink and plant myself.  The band had finished playing just as I'd entered but another band would begin their sets soon.  "Excuse me," I said to the back of the extremely tall gentleman standing next to my spot as I shimmied my way into it and ordered a Guinness.  He turned around and smiled. It was my handsome backpacker.  Sadly, it was so loud that I couldn't hear his name and I didn't want to ask him to repeat it a fourth time.  For ease of sharing, we'll call him Bern as he is from Bern, Switzerland.  


Bern & I hung out together most of the night and he became my protector, of sorts, as I ended up being one of only ten women in the bar that night.  All of the packs of golfing buddies I'd seen earlier, as well as the local 'hottie', ended up in this pub and were looming at this blonde woman traveling on her own.  So I was thankful Bern was there to ward them off.  Not that I couldn't have handled them, it was just nice not to be bothered.  We spent the evening chatting & people-watching as we patiently waited for the next band to take the stage.


Not long after the band began to play, two men entered the bar through the door which led to the restrooms and what I assumed was a back entrance. (Much later I learned there was a rocking nightclub back there.  I could have been on top of a box and dancing to the latest techno music at The Grand!)  The guy who was near my age was chatting with a gal from a hen party (aka bachelorette party).  As they passed behind me, I felt the guy's hand on the mid of my back and his deep, sexy, Irish voice whispered something in my ear like "I hope you're having a good time" or something like that.  I rolled my eyes and thought, "what a player", as I turned my attention back to Bern and the band.  Not too long after, Mr. Player and his friend came over and we all began chatting.  As it turns out, Leon (aka Mr. Player) and Ted were really nice men.  Ted, who tried to pass himself off as Leon's father, is a neighbor of Leon's.  They teased me a bit about Bern, as he stayed close and kept the drunk men away, which I thought was sweet, but judging by his looks he was clearly too young for me.  Needless to say, I teased Leon about hitting on me at the same time he was hitting on the other gal.  He vehemently denied hitting on the other gal and said he was just chatting.  Right.  


Both men are farmers and were on their way to the Dingle Peninsula to look at cattle.  I was actually on my way to explore the Dingle Peninsula the next day myself.  And, small world, we were all staying at the same inn.  My father's family is from the country and I have a few uncles and cousins who are cattle farmers.  But these two gentlemen were unique.  Ted encouraged me to visit an Irish pub in New York City that isn't too far from where I live:  Pig & Whistle.  (I still have yet to make my way there.)

After a couple of hours of hanging out, dancing, and chatting with everyone around us, Leon and I sat in the corner and talked for another couple of hours. Until this evening, I had never met a cattle farmer who carries an iPhone, enjoys international travel, knows who Andrea Bocelli is, can actually sing Andrea Bocelli's songs (quite perfectly, I might add), and ... salsa dances.  A man after my own heart!


The band, Bog the Donkey, was actually quite good.  Although I have yet to figure out what 'Bog the Donkey' means, they were an absolute blast!  Now, had I not been enchanted by the conversations I was having, you would not have been able to pry me off of the dance floor.  Here's a video of them singing The Galway Girl.  A favorite of mine given Galway Ireland is one of the areas in Ireland from whence the Burke family hails.


The next morning, I met Leon and Ted in the dining room for breakfast before we all went our own merry ways.  They to look at cattle, and I to explore the region.  It wasn't until they had been gone for about 5 minute when I realized I didn't have their contact information.  I raced outside but, alas, they were nowhere in sight.  

I pulled my car up to the entrance of the Guesthouse and as I was placing my suitcase in the trunk, who came walking up from the inn next door but Bern!  He was on his way into the Guesthouse for breakfast as it is the sister inn of where he stayed.  I noticed the salt and pepper coloring of his sideburns and realized that he was much older than I had thought.  He had appeared to be in his mid-twenties and now, in the light, I realized he was definitely in his thirties.  We chatted for a few minutes and he caught me by surprise when he planted a firm kiss on my lips.  


He went inside and I climbed into my car ... quite stunned.  


Smiling, of course.

Next up:  Counties Kerry (cont'd) and Limerick ...