Exploring Panama

Panama.
A country I admittedly have had no desire to visit other than to have my feet in every country on the planet before I pass. The canal has never been a draw for me even when others have used it as a ploy to lure me into saying how much I wanted to explore Panama.

So, needless to say, when dear friends broke our rule that whenever we move it must be to a great place for others to visit, I was not enticed to quickly hop on a plane and get down there. And then, I received a message from Beckie inviting me to Nelson’s surprise 40th birthday party. A celebration of any kind with Nelson & Beckie will always have me booking flights immediately. But, Nelson’s 40th? Nothing could keep me away from celebrating the life of my dear friend. And thus, I began to get excited about visiting Panama.

Exploring cities has also never been a big draw for me unless I have a chance to venture out and explore the rest of the country, its people, its culture. I immediately began to see what I should explore, beyond Panama City, knowing Nelson & Beckie would most likely join me as they’re adventurers as well. A friend of mine has an island and an eco-B&B in the Bocas del Toro province of the Panama Caribbean region. But due to the fact Nelson & Beckie had already booked a weekend away from the baby, and my trip was a short 5-days, I opted to join them at the nearby resort. I could use a relaxed few days at a beach ~ I’d been too stressed of late. And, this would give me more time with little Diego and Nelson’s parents, Sarita and Nelson.

The party was a complete success! Beckie did an amazing job surprising Nelson. It was a lovely evening on the poolside terrace, overlooking the water, half-moon in the night sky, white candles outlined the edge of the pool, and latin music playing in the background. Friends, family, and colleagues gathered in cocktail dresses and stylish suits. Out on the water, not too far away, a line of lights was forming as ships queued to pass through the canal the next morning.

As Nelson worked the next few days, I spent time with Beckie, little Diego, Nelson Sr. & Sarita. We had a lovely lunch on the water and watched the ships as they moved closer to the canal.

Driving around Panama City, I was surprised by how under-developed the city actually is ~ although, there is construction everywhere. And I do mean everywhere. The majority of the city’s skyline is under construction. Luxury highrise apartments are going up in areas where the expats reside. And nearby is the old area of the city where the buildings are occupied by squatters. A rough-looking area, but one that I would be comfortable strolling the main streets during the day. The streets were lined with shop owners peddling their wares from tables on the sidewalks to tourists sporting Panama hats and flip flops. Very picturesque from my point of view. Very difficult, and what appeared to be hopeless, from the other. My heart breaks when I think how it would be to live there.

Beckie and I headed to the canal. It was mesmerizing! I must admit, I did get a little carried away with my blackberry video, and even began giving commentary to the tune of Rick Steves. I get it now. Truly, the canal is something everyone should see…or cruise through. Words cannot fully explain it, so check it out for yourself.

Early the next morning, I check into the Intercontinental Playa Bonita Resort & Spa and head to the spa for a wonderful coconut-almond massage, exfoliation, and moisturizing bubble bath. It was heaven. The services at The Bonita del Mar Spa are superb, and the spa itself is very zen. Their broad services range from saunas, Turkish baths, meditation rooms, to many types of massages and skin/body treatments. For some reason, I seemed to walk ever so lightly when walking through the halls.

I spent the rest of the day at the eternity pool, either poolside or at what became my favorite thinking place…the spot where the water from the pool spilled over and sea took over. Looking out across the water, memories of Venezuela came flooding back as the islands off in the distance reminded me of where I completed my open water scuba dive. I must scuba again soon.

That evening, I was to meet Nelson and his family, along with our friend Ivania, at a restaurant in Casco Antiguo (also known as Casco Viejo), Panama City’s old quarter. Over the next few years, Casco Antiguo will resemble Old San Juan in Puerto Rico. It has almost a thousand historic buildings spanning Spanish colonial dungeons and churches to century-old French and American townhomes featuring wrought-iron around their balconies. The streets are narrow and the plazas cobbled. You can almost see the conquistadors, missionaries, engineers, money-launderers and spies who have all participated in the history here. But for now, many of the buildings are old and dilapidated, many in need of paint, and a few still display their scars from the US invasion of Panama when Noriega was seized.

The hotel provided their driver to take me to where I would meet my friends. The gentleman asked which way I preferred, the long way which takes me back into Panama City then double back into Casco Antiguo, or the short way which goes through a very bad neighborhood? Of course we took the way through the very bad neighborhood! Not because it was the shorter path, but because I want to experience all aspects of the countries I visit. Indeed the area was very poor. Driving through narrow streets in our black SUV with black windows, I felt a bit like Harrison Ford in Clear & Present Danger, only with the added eeriness from the pitch black night. We were stopped at several intersections by military police who checked the driver’s papers, shined their light at me in the back seat, walked around to my window to check my passport. “Americana, si?” “Si, Americana. Muchas Gracias.”

Ego y Narisco is a highly impressive restaurant on Plaza Bolivar. Upon stepping inside the restaurant there is a moment of surprise as you realize this is quite a sophisticated, and hip, establishment. The décor is lovely, and the staff of very attractive Panamanian men and women are very friendly. We sat outside on the plaza under an umbrella and had delicious martinis, and scrumptious tapas.

Around the corner is Bar Platea, located on the ground floor of a colonial town house. This bar/club is cozy, dark, and is reminiscent of a speakeasy. The waiters are large, handsome, Panamanian men who all sport the traditional Panamanian hat. Promptly at 10pm, what I had been told was the best salsa band in all of Panama began to play. They were fantastic! I just wish I could remember their name.

The next few days were spent at the resort with Nelson & Beckie. Morning yoga on the beach. Reading poolside. Catching up with my friends. I have never relaxed so much, so quickly.

And I cannot wait to go back,

to Panama.